Riding Lawn Mowers

The short answer is probably.

The charge indicator only tells you in three different VDC ranges the condition of charge your battery is in. It is very likely working fine. If a charge of 100% is measured at 12.7VDC, then the following conversion should approximate what a meter might read with the corresponding color shown.

Green, indicates 80% charge or greater in your battery (12.46VDC-12.7VDC).

Yellow, indicates 60% to 80% charge in your battery (12.28VDC-12.45VDC).

Red, indicates less than 60% charge in your battery (12.27VDC and lower), as approximates.

The battery that came with your tractor (most likely) is rated as BCI group U1R and 12VDC, 230 CCA @ 0 degrees F.

If you have lights, I'm guessing they are the same as mine at 12VDC/25Watts, or automotive bulb type 1156? You might have noticed a change in brightness between full throttle and idle, but have you looked at the charge indicator?

My GT has the Kawasaki 24 hp (FR730V) motor in it and the charging system is 15 amps at full throttle (3600 RPM). At full throttle with lights on, no problem. At idle with lights on the charge indicator would flash yellow and the lights would dim, when brand new. Also the charge indicator would go to yellow after a few hours from running. My stator is strong but the battery is weak. The Kawasaki manual recommends a battery with a CCA of 550, twice the ability of the battery that Husqvarna supplies and recommends.

The short solution is to put a battery in that is BCI group U1R, 12 VDC, and 25+ Ah rating or better, or at least a CCA of 300 or better. If the charging system is working, and we know the charge indicator is working because it flash's yellow, and you put a proper capacity battery on there, it will solve your concern.

I installed the 12VDC battery from Harbor Freight (sealed solar battery) at approx $65. It's a BCI group U1 rated with a 35Ah capacity more than doubling the capability and I added a few inch's longer battery cables because it is left positive terminal, issue solved. The green flashes after a week of sitting. The lights work at all throttle settings and I have extra power for accessories. I'm not advocating for the HF battery, just a higher capacity battery and why.

If you take a common auto battery with say 500 CCA, making sure it's fully charged, do a quick test by disconnecting the tractor battery and using jumper cables, connect the auto battery to the tractor and see for yourself what happens with the charge indicator, I think you might be pleasantly surprised.

I will add this as a note,

If you want to know if your charging system is working, I think it would be unlikely that as a new machine the stator is bad but it does happen and if the battery has been weak for a long time (one freeze could harm the little battery enough) the stator could go bad.

With that said above, If you have (or a friend) a common multimeter (checking DC volts), first check the volts on the battery before starting the engine, (at the battery terminals/posts) to get a rate of DC volts stored in the battery, this should be between approximately 12.6 VDC and 12.9 VDC. The next step is to start your motor and put it at full throttle and check again at the battery terminals, you should see approximately 13.8 VDC  to 14.6 VDC, similar to what your car would read with the same test performed. It's in the difference of volts between the battery only, (non started engine) and the charge system (engine running showing higher than battery volts), that you know quickly if its working.

By the way, My Dealer said don't worry about the charge indicator flashing yellow all the time because they don't work very well, and indicating to me to not bring it in as a problem if I experience this, that it shouldn't even be installed on the tractor.

I disagree with this opinion and though would rather have a volt meter, the idiot light does work (charge indicator similar to what is common in cars).