Chainsaws

James,

First the oil adjustment screw should stay at max oil for a 20" bar as you indicated, and adjusting the quantity of oil is not the fix.

Second, there are about 5, maybe 6 ways that the oil system will leak, and some are normal. let me explain:

1. During the summer time, when the chainsaw is stored in a very warm environment like a tool shed, the oil will leak out because of expansion, and this is also true with gasoline cans so be careful of very warm environments, especially gas cans. (lNormal problem)

2. During use of the chainsaw, oil is pumping into the bar groove, and everything is warm after a few minutes of use including the bar. So when the saw is shut down, and then immediately put into its storage case, the oil drains back from the chain and bar and usually drips out some where around the clutch, and creates a  small puddle maybe a tablespoon or two. (Normal problem). But sometimes that tablespoon of oil in a chainsaw case spreads out and looks like alot of oil.

3. The chainsaw oil exits the bottom of the tank, (Note: on older chainsaws they pumped oil out of the top of the tanks), there is an oil line with a fixed grommet which is part of the hose, this is a likely place for a constant leak, and if the line or grommet is damaged the entire tank of oil will drain out even If the saw is not being used. (Not Normal problem - definitely a leak, and needs a new suction line hose).

4. The chainsaw oil hoses connect to the pump with no fittings, they are concave rubber fittings on the end of the hoses that compress against the cylinder of the oil pump, and with insufficient  compression or excess pressure, they will leak. The only thing that keeps the right amount of compression on the fittings is the cover plate that covers the oil pump. (Not a Normal problem - definitely a leak, and may need new suction and discharge hoses or the cover plate tightened, This leak however will most likely occur when the pump is pumping, and also will not drain the entire oil tank, but could make a mess).

5. Obviously, anything that is damaged in the oil system will also cause a leak, like a split or cracked oil tank, split oil lines, etc. ( Not Normal - Needs repair or replacement)

6. When mounting the bar to the saw, its real important that the bar oil hole stays clear, that the oil delivery slot at end of discharge hose is kept clean, and that the bar is held flush and tight against the oil delivery fitting at end of discharge hose.( Normal problem - but since the pump is trying to push oil out the end of the discharge hose, and it can't get there the pump will build up pressure, and possibly push oil out a hose somewhere.

So, I think that about covers all the possible leaks, and here is why I stated them all. You can evaluate and eliminate the obvious ones like, #1, #2, and #6. If you brought it in to a Husqvarna repair center and had them look at it, and he said " that nothing is wrong", then I suspect he checked item #5 for no damage. That leaves items 3 &  4, if its draining all the oil out of the tank, I would suspect the grommet and part of the suction hose needs replacement, but if its just some oil then I would suspect the compression oil fittings at the pump.

So here is the fix, remove the clutch and drive sprocket, and oil pump pinion, remove the oil pump cover plate, I think its only one screw, and you will then see the oil pump, clean all the parts and the pump area as you do this, and you should also remove the pump, you should be able to see the compression fittings, clean them up real good too, get  a very small tube of  "ultra black" silicone gasket and oil sealant (Most auto stores have this or equivalent) just make sure the silicone sealant is  for oil and gas applications. Smear a small finger tip of sealant onto the cylinder pump where the compression fittings of the oil hoses fit, Do not get any of the sealant in the tiny cyclinder holes, and again just a very tiny smear spread thinly. Then put it all back together, and follow the directions on the tube of sealant for use and curing. If you know how to remove the clutch, this will only take you 5-10 minutes to accomplish this so its really easy. This is also a good time to lubricate and check your sprocket bearing, which should be done periodically, also during re-assembly make sure the oil pinion gear is properly engaged with the drum sprocket.

Note: This is "Not" a Husqvarna Warranty repair, they will not do this fix, there only fix will be to replace the hoses if they are defective or damaged, and your Husqvarna repair center has already inspected them for damage, I assume.

Note: I am also Not a Husqvarna Representative or Repair Center, this Info is just from experience.

Sorry, about the long explaination, and hopefully this makes sense.