Service & Maintenance Question
I have a Husky 350 chainsaw that I purchased about 10 yrs....
Service & Maintenance Question posted November 20, 2014 by Paul Schneider
386 Views, 25 Comments
Question:
I have a Husky 350 chainsaw that I purchased about 10 yrs. ago. It has worked great for the first 7-8 yrs. The problem that I have is that the muffler keeps coming loose. I have had helicoils installed and the repair shop even safety wired the bolts the last time they repaired it (about a year ago). This time one of the screws reamed out the helicoil and the repair shop says it's reamed out too much to put another helicoil in. I see on the website that this is a known issue and is a design defect. The new saws have 3 bolts holding the muffler. Since this is a design defect I am requesting a credit on the purchase of a new Husky saw. I would think that in the interest of goodwill that this is not an unreasonable request. I can furnish documentation of when and where I purchased the saw. Also, I'm a homeowner and just use the saw occasionally.
Thank You,
Thank You,
Answer
grade 8 nuts can be recessed and tig welded into the existing jug manifold holes. if the recess is not deep enough, oversize the holes into the manifold cover bracket so any protrusion will not interfere with an airtight seal. this will not effect performance and no more stripouts. many guys fabricate a simple bracket that attaches to the handle and this new bracket prevents the muffler from falling off.
Husqvarna will never help you. they will not even answer you.
there are many ways to repair the issue. the job to install grade 8 nuts will cost next to nothing if you engineer the prelim and take the saw and new nuts to any reputable welder, or just mig them in at your own home. those grade 8 will not strip holding on a muffler. you may even want to engineer a third point of contact by fabricating a simple homemade bracket out of an old cookie bake sheet and securing it to the handle.
all it takes is the desire to keep your saw, and a little imagination. this is easily do-able sir...
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and by the by, those devils @ Husqvarna don't even understand the word "Goodwill" you have to speak to them in terms that they can understand. when I write to them, I do it in crayon with the r backwards.
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Robert,
Thanks for taking the time to reply! That sounds like a good solution. I was wondering if studs could be tig welded into the jug and secure the muffler with nuts and lock washers? Where do you get grade 8 nuts? Are they like grape nuts:)
My wife and I got a good laugh out of your second post.
I bought an Echo 400 today but am not giving up on the Husky. I've got a big hickory that came down last month and need to get it cut up.
Thanks again
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if you guys think that one is funny, then you should read the post from that guy and his church.
grade 8 can be had in many many places. any hardware store, home depot has a limited selection in the gray pull out drawers on the screw aisle. grade 8 simply has a Rockwell that is much harder than cheap cheapo hardware. if you over torque a grade 4 or 5 bolt into a grade 8 nut, then the threads on the bolt will shear off and the nut threads aren't even scratched. and vice versa. and many of the bolts on your vehicle are grade 8 for safety cause
you can weld the bolts in there, but I would not recommend it. if and when you weld in those nuts, I would have the bolts inserted to ensure that they will be square to the muffler alignment and to see that they are straight and not ***. this is just the easiest way to cure the problem. a careful fill welding would allow you to drill and tap once again, but it will not be nearly as hard or strong as the grade 8 nut threads.
tapping the muffler everytime you clean the bartrack to ensure it is secure while working, is just one of those pain in the *** items of interest woodsmen must do. it is a necessity to be able to easily remove that muffler to burn out the carbon build up on the arrestor screen.
allowing that screen to cake up will not permit the engine to aspirate and vaccum in the fuel because the other end can't exhale sufficiently. when you get into the routine it is really not a big deal compared to how many times you take off the clutch/brake cover in order to clean up so the flow continues to protect that bar and chain. I just routinely tap my mufflers during every beer break. so
my mufflers get tapped on with that ratchet quite often come to think of it.
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Robert, Thanks again for your reply. I looked at the helicoils in the jug and they don't look that bad. The Husky screw threads have almost disappeared. I'm still leaning towards getting grade 8 studs (3/16") x 3 3/4" and using high temp epoxy to seal them into the jug. The epoxy will stand up to 450 degrees. Do you think that would be enough? I can then use nuts on the end to secure the muffler. I don't see how they could be welded to the jug and still have a smooth mating surface.
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that temp is not the only consideration paul. the vibration at the exhaust port is more violent than anywhere else on that saw.
and certainly you can try jb weld or whatever other glue you would like. who knows? it may actually work! I just know that it would not leave my shop that way. if you pre-drill the existing manifold holes on the jug large enough to recess the new nut into it, then they can be tigged in. they can be migged in very carefully on higher heat range. I would install my bolts and hold them square while doing the tack, then check for proper fit thru the muffler holes, then finish up. if there is still any protrusion, you will have to enlarge the manifold spacer and or muffler holes just enough on the jug side to allow a flush fit that does not leak exhaust gases. I think this is right and the best way to cure the issue forever. but I can't see what you see. you can doublenut those grade 8 and round over the hex edges on your bench grinder to make them round on the outer perimeter. that would make insertion easier, and the new holes less large. I would love to hear a successful outcome where this matter is concerned. if the glue holds, let me know.
if not, try my approach. just don't quit and allow it to win. good luck my friend...
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Thanks Robert, I'm learning some new things from you. I never heard of grade 8 nuts or tig welding... I've heard of mig welding. I'll have to see if there is someone in my area who does tig welding if the epoxy doesn't work. I'll let you know the outcome.
It may be awhile as I'm still taking care of my big hickory tree that came down..... lots of firewood!
Thanks again for your help.
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you are very welcome sir. i'm hoping you understand the idea of taking a bolt and tightening two nuts on the end, (doublenutting).
this practice will allow you to grind the outer edges of the nuts in order to make them smaller and rounded on the outer perimeter.
this procedure will then allow you to drill out the helicoil holes with just enough diameter to insert those grade 8 nuts and get them flush.
I am relatively certain epoxy will not hold, but if you must try it. good luck paul. look forward to hearing success...
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Robert,
I've been looking into solutions for my 350 Husky muffler problem and was wondering what you think about replacing the cylinder head with a new one. I see them on E-Bay for less than $30!!!! Is that a difficult re-build job?
Thanks, Paul
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hello paul. doing the uppers on a 350 is very quick and simple for those of us that have done top-ends many, many times.
for the 1st timer it is not very quick, but I know that you can do a perfect job of it with minor direction. there are many procedures that must be strictly adhered to so the saw has and continues to have nice torque & compression. should you decide to replace the jug and piston/rings/circlips, then I will walk you thru each step so there will be no booboos. you will need fairly common tools only. nothing fancy is really necessary with the exception of a good compression test kit, that can be purchased at sears for $65.00 or so.
testing compression value is not mandatory, but having a test kit is for life, and is certainly handy.
getting into position to re-do the top-end is straight forward disassembly. take notes for items that might confuse during re-assembly. do not take things apart that can be left assembled and removed in a single unit. nest things together that belong together.
what comes off?
1. muffler. 2. carburetor, manifold, intake boot, impulse hose, choke lever, throttle linkage. 3. recoil starter assembly. 4. flywheel. 5. clutch. 6. cylinder. 7. piston/ring/circlips/roller&needle cage bearing.
flywheel removal must be as gentle as possible. if you have a small puller, use it. if not, use a screwdriver to put pressure onto the edge of the wheel and tap the end of the crankshaft with a hammer to dislodge it out of the keyway. keep the hammer face square to target.
to remove the clutch. pull the sparkplug and feed nylon cord into the jug as a piston stop. the clutch must be rotated CW for removal. any wrench that fits into the clutch with a pair of vice grips on that wrench will work just fine to spin it loose. remember to lube the needle cage bearings before re-assembly.
when tapping the roller out of the piston, chock the piston with wood, or hold it firmly so you do not put any lateral stress on the crank/pushrod/bearings. remember to lube the needlecage bearing before sliding it back into the pushrod.
before you pull the jug, thoroughly blow all funk out away from the saw. nothing can fall into the crank opening. nothing.
performing disassembly in this way allows you to completely clean the saw, and lube for proper maintenance. before starting the teardown, empty all fluids.
I do this job all the time in one billable hour which includes the compression test after completion. you will likely be on it several hours. sometimes I add another 15 or 20 minutes if the customer is a jerk.
re-assembly requires specifics. ie; arrow points toward front of saw(muffler), ring must be right side up(directional) and located with opening on ringstop pin. oil jug sleeve/piston, circlips must be triple checked for complete seating.
careful inspection of all hoses, intake boot, before button up. only torque 120"lbs on the head bolts. use silicone sealer on the gasket and mating surface, but do not get it into the crank or the impulse hole. this is critical.
if you decide to replace the uppers then I will be more specific in my explanation of the necessary steps. the Chinese uppers work well on that saw. buy with confidence.
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Robert,
Thank you so much for taking the time to detail the procedure for replacing the jug!!!! What do you think about replacing the screws that hold the muffler on with studs and nuts. I've heard there is a green loctite to secure the studs to the jug permanently. Then I would secure the muffler with the nuts and lock washers. I, again, want to thank you for sharing your expertise. Not many people would take the time that you have, to help a novice like me. I'll let you know when I get the jug. I noticed that on the top of mine it is marked 45 L. I guess I need to order one that matches that?
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quite welcome paul. if memory serves, it is 51.7cc and you want the 45mm kit. pay attention to detail in a meaningful way. the arrow on top of the piston must aimpoint forward. the ring is directional and cannot be installed upside down so be careful. if a circlip pops out inside the cylinder it will destroy both sleeve and piston. so triple check complete seating. avoid finger acids so use surgical gloves when handeling the ring/piston/sleeve. coat everything with jaso 2 cycle before sliding the cylinder down over the piston ring.
I will answer any questions during the re-build if you need support. you are really chompin at the bit to glue in muffler studs so git er done. but you need to use aircraft nuts with nylon inserts. that will stay better than lockwashers. and believe it or not, there is a girl that posts up on the answerarmy. her name is karla. if she offers you advice, please listen to her because she knows what she is doing. let me know when you have the parts if you would sir. good luck and do not hurry or miss a step.
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Robert,
Thanks, again, for the tips. I hadn't thought about the gloves... but it makes sense. Will I need a piston ring compressor to slide the jug over the piston?
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you will only need it if you were born without thumbs, or if you lost them in an industrial accident.
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sometimes I think I'm all thumbs.
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you will not feel that way after you effectively accomplish your 1st engine re-build. you will be prouder than a game rooster.
so get the shop fridge stoked up with old style and don't tell the wool this job will only take a few hours. that way you can swill until bubbles are coming out of your nose. a celebration so to speak...
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i was reviewing my post and left out a few things. the handlebar comes off 1st, and there is a cap covering the antivibe spring so don't forget it during re-install. the clutchbrake handle comes off also. when retightening the carburetor bolts do not over tighten these as it will create an air leak which leans the mix, which burns up the top-end. all bolts should be cleaned and dry(no oil or grease) so they retain bite.
in addition to all of the other things I have posted, I also want for you to remove the fuel tank so you can gain access to the 4 bolts that tighten the crank and riser housing. you will find that all 4 have vibrated loose, so remove only 1 bolt at a time and apply Loctite then re-torque with 4mm allen(I think 4mm). also buy 3/8" drive longstem metric allens. home depot sells the set that incudes 4mm, 5mm, 6mm etc. at or about $22.00 sears, napa, lowes, all sell them at a much higher cost. that is if you don't already have them. don't go above 10lbft. 120"lbs if you get to 9lbft and get scared, then stop there. 108"lbs.
you may notice the 2 AV springs are sloppy on the tank, if so, re-tension them before you put the tank back on. you may want to buy a set of t-handle allens also. but it is only for speed during re-assembly. do not use power tools to re-assemble anything.
only use the small inch pound click type torque wrench in 3/8drive. do not use the foot pound big 3/8drive.
from this point forward if you need specific answers just email direct to I will be able to send videos about your 350 re-do.
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I found a guy that moved up to 1/4" bolts for his 350 muffler. and it worked. re-drill @1/4" and tap @ 20TPI. the bolts will be tight thru the muffler and apparently, that stops them from loosening.
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Now that sounds like something I can handle!! I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks!!! On second thought, don't I need to drill a little smaller than 1/4"?
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if you buy the 1/4"x20tpi tap, it should have the drill bit in the same package. if the hcoils reamed out you might be able to tap right now. if you have never tapped before then you need to cut 2 or 3 threads and reverse back out a couple turns to clear fouling. this way you avoid getting bound up in the cutting. if this is what you decide to do then you still need to remove the handle bar, recoil starter, and fuel tank. to re-torque and Loctite the 4 crank bolts. the 350 universally vibes them loose.
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Robert, I have a tap & die set and checked the manifold holes. I tapped out the one side with a 12-24 tap and it looks like there's enough thread to hold a bolt. The other side still has the helicoil in it so I'm not sure if it needs to be tapped. I'll check the crank bolts to see if that's the problem. I want to try the 12-24 bolt before going to the 1/4" bolt. Thanks for your help.
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I think the crank retention bolts coming loose may be at least partially the reason those muffler bolts loosen up. so get them loctited and torqued correctly. after hcoil installation it is not possible for me to evaluate the manifold holes. I can't adequately gauge what it will take to re-thread or which bit to use if it needs drilled again. I am certain you will get it worked out correctly.
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