Service & Maintenance Question
I have a 455 Rancher chainsaw. The serial number is SN 06...escalated
Service & Maintenance Question posted April 3, 2014 by Geoffrey Healy
724 Views, 20 Comments
Question:
I have a 455 Rancher chainsaw. The serial number is SN 06 4300251. Can I assume this means my chainsaw is a 2006 model? I was just cutting and the chain stopped spinning. I removed the side plate and the clutch fell off in my hand. The end of the crankshaft sheared off in the clutch. How complicated and expensive is it to replace the crankshaft? Is it worth replacing?
Answer
Geoffrey,
Wow - Thats a New One, I would love to do the forensic and post mortem analysis on that one, Ugh. Do you know what happened ? Like did you hit something Uber hard in a tree, that sheared the crankshaft? Or did the clutch sieze up?
Anyhow, back to your questions - The "06" in the begining of your SN# does indeed mean it was manufactured in 2006, so you will need an IPL parts list for a 2006.
Yes, It is possible to re-build the chainsaw at a reasonable cost provided that you, or a friend do the work to save on labor, and then all you have to do is buy parts, but if you get an estimate from a repair shop, I am sure that the price will be more than the original cost of a new saw.
Ok, pricing a "Used" E-bay crankshaft with bearings and seals included is somewhere around $ 25.- plus, but before you run out and buy a crankshaft, I would recommend a complete tear down and dissassembly, Inspecting, and thoroughly cleaning all of the parts. You stated that the crankshaft sheared off in the clutch, hopefully there is enough of the shaft sticking out so that you will be able to get the clutch apart, otherwise you will probably need a clutch too, or take it to a machine shop to get it apart. The internal engine parts would also concern me like the condition of the cylinder, and piston.
After you have it completely apart, you will be able to make a better assessment of what needs to be replaced and repaired, and I really was not kidding about the post mortem analysis. You really need to try and figure out what caused the problem because after buying a Crankshaft and re-building the engine, you really don't want it happening again.
Your other re-course is selling what is left of your chainsaw, and actually for some of the parts that are left, Starter, Clutch and Brake Cover, Crankcase, Top Cover, Brake handle, and Front handle, and Muffler, on E-Bay or the like maybe locally. You may be able to retrieve almost enough dollars to buy another used or re-furbished chainsaw.
Of course the above information is only my opinion, I do re-build this model chainsaw almost on a weekly basis from parts. So If I can help you do the analysis, I will be glad to try. Oh one other easy check, Is to remove the three bolts that hold your muffler on, and then take a peak inside the exhaust port, and look at the condition of the cylinder, and piston, If you see excessive scoring on the piston and/ or cylinder then there is a good chance you will need more than just a crankshaft. Also cylinder, and piston parts start to get fairly pricey. So that may help you decide if you want to scrap it for parts or its worth re-building.
I hope this helps!
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative, or Authorized Repair, just an Experimental Chainsaw Person, and I love taking apart Model 455's. I wish I lived nearby, I would have it dissassembled already. Lol. If I can be of any help, Please give me a shout back, also Pictures are helpful If you need me to look at Saw condition and parts, Just post the picture as an attached file.
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Karla,
Thanks for the info! I definitely want to take the time to attempt a repair. Do you think it would be helpful to order a 455 service manual from servicemanualvault.com for a first time disassembly? I will first try your recommendation to remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder condition. Do you think it is possible this happened because I sharpened a chain once too often? The bar did get bound up in a log kerf at one point before the shaft failure?
I will take you up on the offer to look at pictures of potential damage points after the disassembly.
Geoff
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Geoffrey,
In answer to your question, Yes I would acquire a copy of the Husqvarna factory Service Manual, If its not too pricey. There are some nice pictures, and diagrams, and they will also recommend some of the torque values, and specs that you will need. However, as a minimum, I would download the IPL drawing and parts list, which you can get from the Husqvarna site for free.
Here is a link to your IPL drawing: /images/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_AAaa/HUSI2006_AAaa__5449074-01.pdf
You could almost assemble, and dissassemble the chainsaw from the IPL drawing, but the service manual will provide a few hints, and tips.
I will be glad to help you as much as I can. so If you get stuck or your not sure then give me a shout. I am glad you decided to give it a try, and yes the first time is a bit scary, but I have enough experience for the both of us, and I'm willing to share and help you. I think I could put together or take apart a model 455, in my sleep. Lol.
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Karla,
I hope you remember me. Geoff the "newbe" to chainsaw work with the failed 455 crankshaft. Since your last answers, I have retrieved the part list and the workshop manual. I note in the workshop manual the list of 16 special shop tools, many of which seem to perhaps be required for a crankshaft replacement. Any advice you can provide on which of these tools I really need to have before attempting full disassembly would be greatly appreciated.
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Karla,
I hope you remember me. Geoff the "newbe" to chainsaw work with the failed 455 crankshaft. Since your last answers, I have retrieved the part list and the workshop manual. I note in the workshop manual the list of 16 special shop tools, many of which seem to perhaps be required for a crankshaft replacement. Any advice you can provide on which of these tools I really need to have before attempting full disassembly would be greatly appreciated.
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hello guys, I am late to the party. Geoff, what type of workshop do you have? compressor? bench vice? bench grinder? air chisel? etc... I read you were asking is it worth it to re-build? obviously, you can buy a brand new 455 rancher for $400.00
by the time you wrap this thing into a bow, labor wise you will almost get there depending on how you value spare time. I would go thru roughly 1 case of old style and have bubbles coming out of my nose b-4 completion. as far as specialty tools, I kinda doubt you will need them. if you are replacing components, then maybe, but replacing anything driveshaft to me means replacing all of it. because something made it happen captain. im not there to investigate and forensically determine A slapped D and B Slammed C rubbing E which ejected A and so forth. I know Karl has his program together and will not throw you any curveballs. before you get started, if you choose to accept this mission, let me say that organization of parts, and note taking is a must if this is a maiden voyage. next item of interest is "Economy of movement" in a disassembly is essential. you will have certain components that are a known functional quantity that do not need investigation by complete teardown, unless of course you are like me and want to know everything about everything for future reference.
1. Organization of parts that group together, and go in order. I use old plastic cottage cheese containers and whatnotski's.
2. note taking on groups of items that have a sequence in reassembly, thataway I don't need to stay sober.
3. Economy of movement. if it doesn't need complete disassembly, then set the carb and recoil assembly aside in 1 piece, etc.
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I was just reading karls tool list and would like to add that the torque wrench must be a quality "click type" torque wrench because the cheap ones do not work and will get you into big trouble. also add a length of nylon rope to the list as a good piston stopper.
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Geoffrey,
I hope your checking your E-mails ? Anyhow, one other thought which would help both Robert, and Myself, If you have a digital camera and take some before pictures, You can attach them to your Posts on this site, and the easiest way Is If you have software like "Office - Word", you can insert multiple pictures into a "Word document", and the just attach the one document to your Post. I would definitely like to see a picture or two of the clutch, and crankshaft side of the chainsaw before your disassembly.
I hope the tool list was helpful from the previous posts, and If you have any additional questions please ask.
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Geoffrey,
I understand your decision, and I appreciate your compliment and confidence of my repair ability. But, I will have to decline your request to do the diagnostics and repair, I have found that it is more feasible for me to do local repairs as a hobby only.
I might suggest checking out Ebay Auction, you might consider putting it up for bid as parts.
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or Authorized Repair, Just an experimental chainsaw person.
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Karla,
Geoffrey Healy is back. I investigated the e-bay "sell for parts" option for my busted crankshaft 455 chainsaw. Turns out I won't get very much, so I decided to take it apart and try to replace the crankshaft. I got as far as the cylinder removal and discovered the four cylinder bolts require what looks like a special wrench to remove. It looks like a star pattern with a hole in the middle. Can you help me identify the required wrench and perhaps the size needed for a 455 cylinder bolt. Thanks!
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even if you buy a new saw, don't part out that creampuff. I can't agree karl. sorry. Geoff you know that you want to do this build.
I know that you are capable of it. who cares if it takes longer than billable hours? you get gratifaction. it gets you away from the wool. it provides unlimited beer drinking time, just blame the re-build, she doesn't have a clue how long it is supposed to take.
so get the shop fridge stoked up with cold guys, that is #1... then drink up til the courage overwhelms, and start your teardown.
p.s. just take notes. thataway you don't need sobriety...
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im here for you if you get stuck. I know karl will be glad to standby and lead you onto the promised land if you get stumped as well.
so you aren't gonna get left twistin in the breeze old son. hell, karl babysat me an entire night this past week when a brand new 576 wouldn't start fresh from the factory. I put an embarrassing amount of time into figuring out that nightmare. it turned out to be the very last thing on a trouble shooting list. a dang compression relief valve stuck open and compression was too low at TDC to light the candle. my email directly is . so if I am neglecting answerarmy you can reach out direct. if karl wants to give up his mailbox, that is his decision... lets get it cuttin dude...
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Geoff, it would not be cost effective for you to have it done by anyone else, and especially not with 2 way shipping. you can do it. I assure you that you will complete this re-build, and when you do, the level of gratifaction couldn't be price tagged.
as far as having the same failure again, that's not possible. the clutch drum and sprocket free wheel on needle bearings slid onto the shaft. the shoes, springs, and counterweights are connected to the shaft by dogs that stay retracted. that setup is how and why the centrifugal clutch works so well on a chainsaw.
the science of it is pretty simple. the shoes and springs are connected to the driveshaft at idle rpm's. as the engines rpm's go up, up, up centrifugal force overcomes spring strength and the shoes move outward making friction contact with the clutch drum. that friction forces the drum to rotate at the same speed as the shaft. the sprocket and drum are already connected, so now the engine driveshaft drum/sprocket/ and chain are all in lockstep.
the frequency vibration of the chain/sprocket/drum and needle bearings that are tightly on the shaft, travel into the shaft steel. and if there was any impurity in the forge of that steel, then that was what caused the shaft to shear.
the odds of that happening again are astronomical. if another shaft sheared at the clutch, then you should go buy a lotto ticket. the failure was probably similar to an opera singer shattering a glass just by singing to it.
please don't allow any of the "how to" talk intimidate you out of this re-build. I know you can do it.
organize the parts as they come off, take notes where parts have an order in which they re-assemble, don't force anything. be gentle.
lastly, economy of movement, meaning don't take things apart un-necessarily, leave the carb in one piece, leave the recoil starter in an assembled condition, don't take the dogs off of the flywheel. etc. etc.
you will have a working saw in no time. you will want to lick yourself all over for the accomplishment. you will be prouder than a game rooster, boy!
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to answer the original question "would you be willing to do the re-build" & "how much would it cost"?
yes, I would build it. @ minimum 3 billable hours. even if I only charged 2 hours @ $85.00 per.
$170.00 labor
$100.00 parts guess (new gaskets/seals/crank)
$35.00 2 way shipping min.
so that is at least $305.00 new saw = $400.00
unrealistic. and $100.00 or less if you did it with free advice & tech assistance. plus you would get gratifaction...
only you can determine after teardown, which gaskets are undamaged and still re-useable. the seals are a given. I would replace them regardless. the bearings need cleaned and close inspection b-4 disposition.
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it is worth the effort to re-build your saw Geoff. the weakness in that unit already failed, fix it and you have a very nice saw for under a hundred.
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the clutch is installed reverse thread, meaning clockwise spin will loosen and remove the clutch, so counterclockwise rotation will tighten it. be aware of this.
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