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Service & Maintenance Question

    Jp Hales
    Just bought a Husqvarna 445 XTorq and can't get it to...
    Service & Maintenance Question posted November 15, 2014 by Jp Hales 
    4503 Views, 5 Comments
    Question:
    Just bought a Husqvarna 445 XTorq and can't get it to start. I returned the last one for the same reason so I'm beginning to think the problem is me, not the chainsaw. I've had chainsaws before, so I know the right fuel/oil mixture and put in a good quality chain oil. I've just never had to put together a NEW chainsaw before. The instructions that throw me are "remove the clutch cover (chain brake) and take off the transportation ring. I know what the clutch cover is, but can't figure out what the transportation ring is. The teeny picture in the book just shows a screw, which does not exist on the chainsaw. So other than that, I have followed the instructions for assembling it, which is basically taking off the clutch cover and tightening the chain. The spark plug is firing also. Anyone else have problems with a be pad new 445?
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    Answer

     

    • robert smith

      mr hales. I already know what the problem where starting the saw is concerned. I will explain in a moment.  1st.  the transportation ring is the white nylon washer installed over the forward barbolt. it separates the cover from the casting where the bar would normally do this. but since the powerhead ships without the bar installed, they put that white plastic washer on as the spacer and lightly tighten down the bar nuts. 

      now the no start. upper management at Husqvarna is replete with the type of complacency that can only be categorized as runaway derelict. I would fire everyone if worked for this bunch.  these geniuses continue to use a supplier that makes CRV's that stick in the open position. they ship brand new saws that can't be started because the valves stick open.  I will explain how to eliminate this issue in just a moment.

      when attempting to start the saw, pull the choke until the gate closes.  with choke on, and switch on, leave the CRV closed. if you already pushed it down to open it, then take off the cylinder cover and simply pinch in with your index and thumb to pull the valve back up.  this will close the CRV.  only pull the recoil a couple of times with the choke on, then push the choke back in to close it, which opens the gate.  now sharply pull in short deliberate pulls roughly 6" to 10" pulls, and if it fails to fire, then you must hold the throttle trigger wide open while pulling the recoil.  this will evacuate the excess fuel.  the saw should start just fine now, if it hasn't already.   this procedure will work for you each and every time.

      now,  they will send you a new CRV when you *** at the local dealer. you must make the dealer get the CRV because the retards at Husqvarna will ignore you.  but the new CRV will likely do the same thing, so this is how to easily fix the issue.

      if you have the small old O-rings from the last time you re-did your fuel injectors, then use one of them.  if not, you can buy a 2 pack at any auto parts store for a $ or 2.  pull the cylinder cover off of the saw and roll the O-ring down over the push button on the CRV until it falls between the topcap and the push button.  the diameter of the hole is way larger than the stem on the CRV so it will be a very sloppy fit.  but the O-ring will act as a limiter when the button is depressed.  it will actually retract the valve just enough to ensure that it will close as the compression rushes thru it and thereby allowing the topend to compress the atomization of fuel/air mixture with enough pressure to light the candle.

      I do not represent Husqvarna. I repair/re-build all makes and models of chainsaws professionally.

      follow the script and you will have good luck sir.  please be respectful of that little saw, it can disfigure you badly if careless ever. and keep it perfect clean in the clutch/brake cover area. the bartrack and oiler holes must be evacuated often as well.

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    • robert smith

      and for the saws own good, please drive out of route if necessary to buy straight refined high octane gasoline.  it is a very bad idea to use any ethanol blended fuel ever.  even once.  I could explain the science behind this request, but I will save that for another post.

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    • Eugene Rounds

      For those that are reading this thread and don't know what a CRV is, it the Compression Release Valve that allows easier starter pulls. It should close automatically as soon as the engine starts.

      What Robert mentions is only temporary fix and fine for testing but I would recommend replacing the CRV with a known good working version as a permanent fix.

       

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    • Jp Hales

      Thanks for the great answer. I had put my chainsaw up for the day out of frustration and went inside to vent them on an ice cold Smithwicks. After the second one, I decided I shouldn't be messing around with sharp things that move in a circular motion. I did try this method out yesterday and I was able to start my chainsaw. I am glad to know about the CRV and wish I had made a wiser purchase. But I have to admit, this saw does a good job and is easy to handle. Thanks again for the answer and the great tips. 

       

       

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    • robert smith

      you are quite welcome sir.  glad to help.  the CRV is only a $10.00 valve, and Eugene is correct when he says to get one that works.  unfortunately, that may take more than 1 try.  the dealer is the guy to see.  he will get you another valve, but get ready.  you might need to make him do it again.

      for this reason I recommend the small injector O-ring trick. it works. and by the by,  I work out in the woods with bubbles coming out of my nose. staying sober is not the issue, complacency is. just use wedges to prevent the work from collapsing in on your bar.  and always be cautious.

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