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Service & Maintenance Question

    Jim Farrell
    Hi, I have a Husqvarna 345e chain saw and it needed a new...escalated
    Service & Maintenance Question posted May 7, 2013 by Jim Farrell 
    2531 Views, 11 Comments
    Question:
    Hi,

    I have a Husqvarna 345e chain saw and it needed a new coil so I ordered one. Looks like installing the new coil will be easy except for the fact that the spark plug wire coming from the new coil does not have a boot on it. So I ordered a new boot also.

    So here's the dumb question part: how do I install the boot on the end of the spark plug wire coming from the coil? That wire is cut off square.

    I am not sure exactly what to do with the "spring like" piece other than I believe the round part of the "spring like" piece is what snaps onto the top of the plug. If it had what looked like a piece you crimp that would be easy to understand. Picture included below.

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Photo:
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    Answer

     

    • Karla

      Jim,

      Your right about the spring being the part to fit on the top of the spark plug, this is a very simple connector no crimping required.

      The other end of the spring is a "barb" or similar to a fish hook, "Do not strip any insulation, the high voltage conductor  is inside the insulation", pierce the barb through the cable about 3/8 inch from the end. Use a pair of pliers if necessary, if the barb goes thru the center and a little out the other side that is Ok, The key to success is that the barb has to go through the center strands of wire inside the insulation.

      Now push the spring end into the small diameter of the connector boot, you may need a screwdriver to assist pushing the spring and cable into the boot, make sure the cable remains fastened to the barb. push it into the boot until you can see the spring inside the large open end of the boot, you may have to turn the spring 90 degrees to get the correct orientation, Thats it! Your done.

      If your still not sure, take the old one apart, and you can see how simple it is put together.

      Hope this helps.

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      • Jim Farrell

        Thanks Karla for the very clear description.  I pretty much decided that's how it had to be by (duh!) pulling back the old boot on the old coil wire and looking at how it connected (double duh!).  But your answer is very clear abd complete and I'm sure will be helpful tp others.

        Jim

         

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    • Jim Farrell

      I still have a problem - no spark to the plug even with a new ignition coil and new boot.  I believe I put the boot on correctly - the way Karla describes - the barb is right through the center of the wire - through the conductor. The metal part of the plug was touching the engine when I checked for spark.  Also, it's a new plug.

      It seems almost impossible that a new ignition coil would be bad.

      Could there be a problem with the flywheel?  There are two "patches" of material (magnetic?) on the side of the flywheel.  If it's magnetic does it wear out?

      Thanks.

       

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    • Karla

      Jim.

      Sorry to hear your still having problems. I am sure you put the boot and HV connection together OK, so lets back up. Why did you think the other coil was bad before you replaced it?

      Did you check the on/off switch to make sure it was opening and closing, If you used a continuity tester. I have seen switches go bad, so that could be your problem. If you remove the switch wires from the coil, and tape them off, see if the coil will start the engine, to shut the engine off without the switch working just pull the choke out.

      When you took the saw apart  and  removed the wires off the coil, did you  label them or mark which one was ground, Is it possible you switched these wires ?

      I have never seen the magnet on a flywheel go bad, unless it was removed and dropped or banged on with a hammer but even then they usually are still OK. Did you set the gap correctly for the coil, typically the coil to magnet gap should be about .010 - .015 inches or about the thickness of a regular business card for most chainsaws.

      Also if you removed a lot of parts to get to the coil, make sure you didn't inadvertently pinch a wire, or push something metal like a muffler up against the switch causing it to ground the ignition system..

      Please let me know, If any of this helps.

      I am sure we can get this running again, I haven't lost a chainsaw patient Yet!

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    • Jim Farrell

      Karla,

      I worked on the saw some more, taking into account your advice.  I completely got the switch wires out of the loop and still no spark.  So either the new coil is bad or has too much gap or I did not install the barbed spark plug connector correctly or well enough?  So I redid the barbed connector and finally got some spark!  Reconnected the switch wires and still had spark so I guess the originally not starting problem was the coil.  The spark seems a little weak looking, though, and the saw only ran for several seconds (new plug and I do not think it's a gas problem).  Maybe I should try the "normal" type plug connector (that you crimp to the wire once you fold over some bare connector) and/or make the gap between the coil and flywheel as small as possible?  Right now a business card comfortably fits in the gap.  It's fresh gas and I put StarTron in my gas regularly.  Thanks.

      Jim

       

       

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    • Karla

      Jim,

      I think you should be OK, with the spark. So I wouldn't change the coils air gap or go to a different boot conector. What is the gap on the spark plug? Some engines recommend .024 - .028, try closing the spark plug gap to maybe .020, see if that makes a difference.

      Also how are the piston rings, and what is your engines compression like ? I would recommend removing the muffler, and turn the engine over by hand, and look at the rings through the exhaust port, your looking to see if there is carbon in the ring grooves along side the rings, or if you can move the rings in and out, I use a wooden dowel to push on the rings, and make sure they move, sometimes the rings get stuck with carbon, this will inhibit the engine from starting easily if the rings can't move. Another thing I have used is a product called "PB Blaster LMT" spray, follow directions on spray can, and spray the "LMT" cleaner into the spark plug hole, turn the engine over 1-2 revolutions, and let the LMT sit in the cylinder, this will help free up the piston rings if there is any carbon in the rings.  Oh, by the way I have had engines that appear to have good compression but the rings were stuck, when I got the rings free'd up, the engine started.

      I hope this helps, but I am glad you now have spark.

      Please, don't give up, and just let me know what you find, Thanks!

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    • Jim Farrell

      Karla,

      I checked the gap and it was too large.  Set it to 0.020 inch and was optimistic it would start.  Would not start.  No spark again.  Don't trust the new coil (seems very unlkely that the new coil is the problem) since nothing was changed (except pulling out the plug and setting the gap - made certain the boot connector was snapped on the plug securely).  I sent back the coil for a refund and bought another one from somewhere else.  The new (2nd) coil will be here toward the end of the week.  It comes with the boot attached and new wires for the switch.  I'll let you know how it goes.  I bought some LMT to have around.  It gets rave reviews.  Haven't checked the rings yet but had no spark.

      Jim

       

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    • Karla

      Jim,

      Sorry to hear your still having problems! But glad to hear you could send the coil back, and hopefully the second one will be the charm.

      Just curious, but I am assuming these are used coils?

      Very frustrating, but I know you will solve the problem.

      Also, thanks for the update.

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    • Jim Farrell

      Karla,

      The new coil came.  Picture included.  The coil came with the boot installed and new switch wires. I believe I installed it correctly including the "business card" gap between the flywheel and coil.  No spark at the plug.  I make sure the boot is snapped onto the plug and tape the plug to the cylinder head so that the plug threads press against the head.  Then I pull the cord sharpely and there's no spark at the plug.  So I'm confused and need to rethink the whole problem.  When the saw failed to start it did so aburptly.  It was running and starting fine.  Turned it off for a little while and hasn't started since.

      Jim

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    • Karla

      Jim,

      Again sorry to hear the coil was Not the problem, Take three deep breaths and try to relax sometimes troubleshooting can be very frustrating, but I agree with you "We need to rethink the whole problem".

      First let me do some research on your specific saw, I have some of the service manuals and IPL drawings, Oh after the three deep breathes its a good time to rethink the whole problem, and sometimes we chase our tails being convinced that its one specific problem. Oh by the way I spent most of my work career troubleshooting very complex system, mostly electrical and electronic too before I retired, so I do understand your frustration. Also as far as my chainsaw repair experience has gone, I have never had a chainsaw that I couldn't fix and feel very confident we can get your saw working.

      So, let me do some research, the only part of the challenge is trying to resolve your problem remotely but thats my problem. I will post latter today with some new suggestions of things to check on your 345E chainsaw. A good technique sometimes for troubleshooting, Is forget everything you know, and start from the beginning and check everything again, obviously we missed something!

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    • Karla

      Jim,

      See the attached file, I have outlined a troubleshooting technique and attached some diagrams,

      If this works please let me know.

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