Chainsaws

I run a 460 Rancher since two years, runs great. So I always do the following:

Cold engine:

• Push the prime bulb 5-6 times. You will see gas in the bulb also some air, its fine.
• Engage the chain break. Push the upper handle forward.
  Important not to have a moving chain and get danger on you.
• Put the saw on the ground and one foot through the rear handle.
• Pull out the choke fully.
• Pull a few times (typ. 3-4 times) until you hear some ignitions. Very few. It sounds as the saw wants to start and cannot. No more pulls now! Otherwise you flood the carburator. When you pull, pull firmly not heavy.
  My saw has a decompression value, but I do not know if yours. When you feel pulling it too hard, push the valve,
• Push the choke half the way in. It now stick a bit out over the kill switch.
• Pull again. Ths saw will start.
• Disengage the chain break now.
  Sine the saw runs idle the clutch is not enganged.
• Pull the gas handle firmly, not fully. Let the saw warm up for a minute or so.
• Happy sawing.

Since your saw is new, make some easier jobs first to run in the saw and get yourself some training. Get a feeling how the saw reacts.

Warm engine:

Just pull.

After the job

After the job, empty the tank and run the carburator dry. Then store it to the next job. Do nit put it with full tank on the shelf. Last but not least what I am always do is sharpen the teeth as last job as well as a cleaning. Then the saw is ready-to-go off the shelf.

About gas

Always run fresh gas. Never use old mixtures! The lubrification oil get degrated over the time by the ethanol in the gas. This affects the lubrification of the oil. Here in Europe we run acylat gas with is pre-mixed and has a much reduced effect of this degrate process. However I run the tank dry anyway.

Following these steps I never had issues with my equipment and they start as they cam out of the box.

Apart from the Rancher I run a small Jonsered 2234 (also Husqvarna) and an old 61 from 1997 or so (serial not readable).