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Service & Maintenance Question

    Bill Ketner
    Husqvarna 395xp stud bolt replacement.escalated
    Service & Maintenance Question posted August 29, 2014 by Bill Ketner 
    4281 Views, 29 Comments
    Question:
    Husqvarna 395xp stud bolt replacement.
    Details:

    I have a fairly new Husqvarna 395xp; about 1 year old and not a lot of use. I was tightening the bar nuts onto the stud bolts yesterday and the rear stud bolt began to turn. I cannot remove the bar nut on the rear stud bolt now as the bolt just turns with the nut. I am sure I can drill a shallow hole and use a thread tap in the hole to apply counter torque to remove the nut. My question is: how difficult is it to replace the stud bolt. From what I can see it entails splitting the crank shaft housing to get at the end of the bolt. Is this correct? Is it something I can do or does it require a trip to a repair shop?

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    Answer

    • robert smith

      I doubt the bolt needs replaced.  and please don't drill it.  just put 2 nuts together on the end of the bolt, remove it from the magnesium body then use a gloop of locktite on the back end of the threads that go into saw and tighten it back into position.

      allow it to dry  don't over torque the bar nuts on the clutch cover when tightening chain or after reassembly from cleanup.

      be gentle with them. pretty sure you will make a good fist of it.

      good luck with that bad Oscar.  its a big meanass saw brother...

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        Thanks for the quick reply. So as I understand you, you are saying to put a second nut on the bolt and that will "pull" the stud bolt out or the 395xp body? I thought the stud bolt was the kind that had a flat rectangular end that fit into a "slot" inside the oil chamber body. At least when I looked at the exploded diagram that is what it shows. 
        It seems you are saying that it is one of the stud bolts I have seen that are threaded on both ends and that once I remove it Locktite will hold it in place? 

        I did double check and the stud bolt does turn with the turning of the nut and it tight, holding the bar cover and bar in place. I read a couple of posts on another site that say that "no way can you ever break the bolt'" which follows your comment about it being a #8 grade. Could it be possible that the casing around the stud bolt head broke? 

        When it loosened there was no sudden snap or release, it simply just kept turning (tightening) and does the same on loosening. There is a lot of torque to turn it either way so I would think if they were threads that have stripped in a magnesium body that it would eventually loosen up some. 

        Not trying to question your knowledge just explaining myself based on the exploded diagram or a 395xp. (see attached) Don't want to make things worse.

        Thanks

        Bill

        pdf161.pdf (804KB)
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        • robert smith

          you appear to be absolutely correct. I must apologize right away for assuming that the bar bolts were threaded studs. that kind of curveball is unforgiveable. the IPL for 395XP & 395 & 395 epa all show rectangular heads that either fit into a molded keyway recess or get held be nibs on the inside of the molded magnesium case. I don't know.  either way you must find a way to brace the powerhead and pull toward you on the bar bolt as you rotate it, to determine if it can be re-seated. perhaps a small pair of vicegrips can provide enough leverage to re-seat the head. I sincerely hope you don't have to crack open the case removing everything to get results. but you might be going there. if there were just raised outlines inside the molded case that framed in the rectangular shaped bolt head, then they probably rounded over enough to make it nearly impossible to prevent bolt spin. I hope that is not true. good luck sir. please post up what you find. I like hearing success stories...

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    • robert smith

      forgot to mention those bolts are grade 8.  they should outlast us all...

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    • Karla

      Bill,

      I just took a look at the IPL (Illustrated Parts List)  drawing, and the bar nut cannot be removed by double nuting the bar nut. On older style chainsaws that was true, because there was just a stud on each end of the bolt that screwed into the case.

      (see part 24 of attached file) Your bar nut is a "T" shaped bar nut, and you may be correct that you will have to split the crankcase, and then you will be able to push or drive the bolt out from the bar side.

      However, I would empty the bar chain oil, and with a light look into the oil tank, and see if you can see the square head of the "T" shaped bar bolt. On some chainsaws, the bar bolts will fall into the oil tank when you tap on them. I do not have a model 395 xp to reference here, and its difficult to determine from the IPL drawing if this is the case.

      Then you can dump the bar bolt out of the tank, after you tap it in. To replace it fasten a piece of wire to a New bar bolt threaded end, and pull the wire out from the inside of the bar chain oil tank to the bar side of the housing. The only catch will be that as you tighten up the new bar bolt you will need to watch the orientation of the square head, part of the "T" to make sure it is oriented correctly. When you get a New Bar Bolt, you will notice that the stud is off set on the square head, and this is for orientation purposes to fit into the corner of the crankcase housing. Do Not put the bar bolt in the wrong orientation or you may damage the crankcase. I just finished working on one yesterday, otherwise I could have taken a picture for you, unfortunately its all together today, and running.

      Please let me Know If you need some additional help, I may have another "T" bar bolt around here somewhere, and could take a picture for you. I am also curious, how that bar bolt was able to turn because the square head of the  bolt should have held it securely inside the corner of the crankcase and bar chain oil tank housing. So you may have some damage there already, If you can turn that bar bolt.

      PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative  or Authorized Repair, Just an experimental chainsaw person.

       

      395 xp.JPG (38KB)
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      • Bill Ketner

        Karla,

        Thank you for the response! I agree with what you are saying and understand the concept of what I need to do. The perplexing thing to me is how the bolt is turning at all... As you say, the rectangular bolt head should be held into place by (I cannot tell from the IPL) something in the casing body I would think. I do not imagine I am strong enough to "round off" the head of the bolt so I can only imagine that the casing has somehow broken. That is the worst case scenario I would think. 

        I tightened the bolt and it got real tight but kept turning as I tightened and then just kept turning without tightening more. I did not feel anything give or snap it just seemed to reach a certain point and not get tighter just hard to turn. I was using the Husqvarna tool to tighten it with. It is the rear bolt and compared to the front bolt it has about 1/4" more threads above the nut. (That for a visual picture). 

        I will try today to empty the oil and take a look with a flashlight and see what I can. If the case has broken I may see bits of the case pour out with the oil when I empty it. Regardless I will report back. 

        Thanks for taking the time to answer.

        Bill

         

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    • Karla

      Bill ,

      I captured a picture of a "T" bar bolt (see attached file), I believe this picture is for a Model 576 bar bolt but should be similar.

      If you notice the orientation part of the square head, one way the shoulder stud will be very close to the edge of the square, but if you turn the bolt 90  degrees it will be further away. You must put the New Bar bolt back in the correct orientation.

      Again, I hope this helps, and I hope you have luck that you can tap/ drive the bar bolt into the oil tank, and get it out that way with out dissassembly of the crankcase.

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      • Bill Ketner

        Karla, 

        Yes this is what I see on the IPL and do not see how it can be as tight as it is and turn if the case is not somehow damaged. Just does not make any sense unless the case or whatever holds the bolt head in place has broken. I will look into the oil case and see what I can and may tap the bolt today as well to see if I can remove the nut and push the bolt into the oil tank.

        Thank you again for all the help,

        Bill

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    • robert smith

      Mr. ketner, it appears that you are absolutely correct sir.

      my apology for assuming the bar bolts were threaded studs. IPL for all 395 models show a rectangular shaped head on the bar bolts.

      therefore, they must either keyway into a recess or there are raised outline nibs the bolthead are held by in the magnesium casting.

      if the casting only has a raised outline for the rectangular head, then I fear they rounded over allowing the boltspin.

      if there is a recess to encase the head, then you must find a way to brace the powerhead and pull on the bolt as you rotate it ccw attempting to re-seat that bolthead.

      it sounds like you are still in warranty timeline. so if the casting half has lost its ability to hold against the barbolt, then make Husqvarna fix it.

      if warranty timeline has lapsed, try vicegrips to re-seat the head by pulling as you rotate the nut and bolt ccw.

      if it can't be done, splitting the case and disassembly is not as daunting as it seems for a beginner. just organize all parts as it comes apart and take a few notes to ease re-assembly.

      once the saw is taken apart, and it shows the outline cannot hold against the bolthead. then determine if the price of a new casting half is the same as mig or tig welding the magnesium to build a new outline inside the 1/2cast to hold the bolthead.

      if you mig in your garage or shop, use argon shielding gas and wire. not fluxed wire. preclean all paint, grease, oil and fod from the casting to ensure solid adhesion welds. I would also pre-heat the casting in my oven before mig welding the spots.

      if welding isn't cost effective, buying a new casting is the way to go. I sincerely hope you find a way to re-seat the bolt without the need for teardown and re-build. good luck sir.  its a big meanass saw and the re-build would give a feeling of accomplishment if it must happen.

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        No worries! I did see some diagrams that had the threaded bolts so I knew what you were talking about. I was pretty sure the diagrams I had downloaded were of the 395xp. 

        I will have to check on my warranty I cannot recall exactly when I purchased the saw. I bought it off eBay and frankly do not recall if I even registered the warranty. I originally bought the saw to use on an Alaska saw mill, but never used it for that and truthfully only used it 3-5 times (likely only 1-2 tanks of fuel). GREAT SAW by the way! I have an outdoor wood boiler and bought some old timbers that the power company used to drive over in fields, most are oak (white and red) and dry so cutting is not an easy task. I had an old Shindiawa that was almost more work to use than an axe, this saw really goes through the timber! So needless to say I am VERY upset! 

        I think you are correct in your assessment of what might have happened. I think recessed area that holds the bolt head in place must have broken or rounded off. I will try to look into the oil tank today and see what I can and then remove the nut from the bolt with the tap I bought yesterday. I don't think that it will re-seat. I can turn the bolt around 360 deg. with the nut and the bolt is VERY tight, it has not loosened at all from when I tightened it and whatever occurred to bolt head happened. I do not feel any area that feels like the bolt head is catching or anything as it turns. I never felt anything break or give when I originally tightened the nut (I was using the Husqvarna tool so it is not like I had a ton of leverage). The nut just kept turning till the bolt began to turn. 

        I will try the warranty and see if that bears fruit, I do not have the equipment to do mig welding so I guess it is like you say, weigh the cost of having someone weld it vs. buying a new casting.

        I watched a You tube video of someone splitting a casing yesterday and "maybe" I could try that. My wife has a saying that for every project I start there is always some doom that occurs to make a simple 1 day project turn into a month of labor. 

        I am guessing you and Karla can both see these postings so I will thank you both here for all the assistance and for taking time out of your Saturdays to help me. I will post more later today as I look into the oil tank and remove the bolt.

        Thanks

        Bill 

         

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        Hope I am not being too much of a pest. 

        So, I drilled and tapped the bolt and as I suspected the tap snapped off right away. Got mad and grabbed the vise grips and managed to start the nut and finally got it off. Of course now the threads are damaged but I guess I could buy a dye and clean them up. Looking into the oil chamber I can see the head of the bolt is turned about 40 degrees relative to the other bolt head. Once I managed to start the nut it came off without any issue albeit hard due to the dinged up threads.

        I can see that part of a corner where the head sits has a raised edge to it. Kind of hard to explain but if you imagine cleaning sand out of a box with your fingers that last portion that is left in the corner is kind of what this looks like. Like a flaw in the casting left a little slope in this "box area": that the head is supposed to sit in and it allows the head to lift slightly when torque is on the bolt from the nut. 

        At this stage I may take it to a shop. I bought it 2/14/2012 but cannot find a receipt so I do not think the warranty will be allowed. Or I may just try to use it as is and tighten the bolt as much as I can. I might want to cut a slot in the bolt to allow a screw driver to be put into it to loosen the bolt should it get stuck again and go with that set up.

        As an expert what are your opinions about that?

        Thanks

        Bill

         

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        Hope I am not being too much of a pest. 

        So, I drilled and tapped the bolt and as I suspected the tap snapped off right away. Got mad and grabbed the vise grips and managed to start the nut and finally got it off. Of course now the threads are damaged but I guess I could buy a dye and clean them up. Looking into the oil chamber I can see the head of the bolt is turned about 40 degrees relative to the other bolt head. Once I managed to start the nut it came off without any issue albeit hard due to the dinged up threads.

        I can see that part of a corner where the head sits has a raised edge to it. Kind of hard to explain but if you imagine cleaning sand out of a box with your fingers that last portion that is left in the corner is kind of what this looks like. Like a flaw in the casting left a little slope in this "box area": that the head is supposed to sit in and it allows the head to lift slightly when torque is on the bolt from the nut. 

        At this stage I may take it to a shop. I bought it 2/14/2013 but cannot find a receipt so I do not think the warranty will be allowed. Or I may just try to use it as is and tighten the bolt as much as I can. I might want to cut a slot in the bolt to allow a screw driver to be put into it to loosen the bolt should it get stuck again and go with that set up.

        As an expert what are your opinions about that?

        Thanks

        Bill

         

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    • Karla

      Bill,

      Thanks for the update, and please keep me in the loop and let me know what you discover.I have some creative thoughts on how you may be able to fix the problem depending on what you discover.

      I hope it works out Ok for you, and you can repair it.

       

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    • Bill Ketner

      Karla,

      Well... I just drained the oil and took a peek inside. At first glance I thought "Sweet it looks OK," the end of the bolt was seated in the same position as the front one. I put a wrench on the nut and turned and could watch as the rectangular bolt head rotated 180 deg. So much for optimism... I am about to try to drill and tap the bolt to see if I can use some reverse torque to remove the nut but it appears that the casing is compromised. I am not a mig welder nor do I know if I want to fool with trying to split the case open myself. At this point I will try to get the bolt out and then see what if anything you have as a suggestion. 

      I am still stunned that the casing would break away that easily! I do not think I am that powerful a man to create that much torque. The front bolt appears seated OK but even it is *** at a slight angle in the seating area. 

      I thought Husqvarnas were good saws but I guess maybe I should have looked at a Stihl, now I know why they are so much more expensive. I have an old Shindiawa chain saw and I have cranked down on those bolts hundreds of times without an issue. I even went to the extent of searching my owners manual so see if there was a torque recommendation for the bolt/nuts and did not find one. 

      OK on to the drill... will let you know what I find. Thanks for the interest and any help... especially on a Sunday!

      Bill

       

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    • Karla

      Bill,

      Some of the bar bolts, do sit at a slight angle (maybe like 5 degrees from straight), so I would not worry about the front bar bolt, that is probably normal, and Not a problem.

      Now, the second bolt, I was afraid that you were going to report that as a problem. Here is what I am thinking, you need to capture the stud of the bar bolt so that it won't turn, a lock washer would be an idea but won't work since you would need to put it on the bar side, and then obviously that would cause interference to the bar. You also need to make sure that the locking device does not reduce the length of the bolt, and the locking device would need to go on the "T" side of the bolt, inside the tank. I hope I'm not getting too wordy with my thought for a fix.

      But before we get to a fix, I would try a couple of suggestions - 1. Its worth a trip to a  good Husqvarna chainsaw repair shop, show them what you discovered, and see what they have to offer, I would start with your comments "That it should not happen ...", and maybe you can talk them into a warranty repair but I would Not leave it there if they have No suggestions. 2. I would research the replacement  cost of the half of a crankcase housing, either new or possibly a really good used one (like on E-bay). Those two fixes would be the best repair possibilities, and is worth a little time to fix it right.

      Ok, a third possibility and I'm looking for the name of these things, but can't find it yet. They are square shaped washers or retainers, or clips (Not very thick, maybe .020 - .040" thick), and have a hole thru the center of the square, the center hole is split, so that when you tighten down on the retainer it bites into the stud, maybe a local hardware store or maybe I will find the name or part number for these clips. Anyhow, my thought would be to install this retainer onto the stud, so that its against the square head.  Now thoroughly clean around the bar bolt hole inside the tank, meaning you need to get all the oil out of the tank with a good de-greaser, and thoroughly dry. Then using some metal bond applied to just the retainer clip, put the square retainer clip onto the "T" stud, and install it into the tank  and then snug up the bar bolt. When the metal bond cures it will hold the retainer clip to the inside of the tank, and the clip or retainer will hold the bar bolt into the retainer. I hope that all makes sense.

      Oh, also when you get to the chainsaw repair shop, you might even ask if they have a similar fastener that will hold the bar bolt into the housing. But definitely try Fixes 1 & 2, first. Again please give me an update, when you resolve the problem.

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      • Bill Ketner

        Karla,

        Wow, thanks again! Not too wordy at all, tough to explain all this to a novice without photos... 

        OK, first issue how do I determine a "good" Husqvarna repair shop. There are 4 in this area and I am not familiar with any of them. I guess I will just go to the 3 that are pretty close together and see what they suggest. 

        I will check into a half crankcase and see if I can locate one and its cost. Of course there is still the issue of cost to install it or time and aggravation if I try to do it. The time is an issue for me as all my projects seem to start out simple in concept and then snowball. I have a tractor that a dealer told me I could replace a seal in the PTO shaft sitting in the drive now, started it yesterday and cannot remove the old seal and of course they are not back until Tue. I would rather pay someone (depending on cost of course) to replace the casing... I think.

        I understand what you are saying about the square lock washers. Not sure as I have seen any or would know where to get one but I will try to google it. So I guess you are talking about something like JB Weld for the metal bond?

        Thanks again, you have been VERY helpful!

        Bill 

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    • Bill Ketner

      Karla,

      Hope I am not being too much of a pest. 

      So, I drilled and tapped the bolt and as I suspected the tap snapped off right away. Got mad and grabbed the vise grips and managed to start the nut and finally got it off. Of course now the threads are damaged but I guess I could buy a dye and clean them up. Looking into the oil chamber I can see the head of the bolt is turned about 40 degrees relative to the other bolt head. Once I managed to start the nut it came off without any issue albeit hard due to the dinged up threads.

      I can see that part of a corner where the head sits has a raised edge to it. Kind of hard to explain but if you imagine cleaning sand out of a box with your fingers that last portion that is left in the corner is kind of what this looks like. Like a flaw in the casting left a little slope in this "box area": that the head is supposed to sit in and it allows the head to lift slightly when torque is on the bolt from the nut. 

      At this stage I may take it to a shop. I bought it 2/14/2013 but cannot find a receipt so I do not think the warranty will be allowed. Or I may just try to use it as is and tighten the bolt as much as I can. I might want to cut a slot in the bolt to allow a screw driver to be put into it to loosen the bolt should it get stuck again and go with that set up.

      As an expert what are your opinions about that?

      Thanks

      Bill

       
       

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    • robert smith

      bill, very happy to hear you finally got the barnut off of the bolt. I knew turning ccw was the only safe direction, and when I read you were going cw started to worry. I wish I had a 395 so I could look thru the tank at the bolt head. I am assuming that if you contemplate slotting the head, then you have an almost straight line to it thru the tank cap opening.  since the casting was flawed where the outline had an airpocket or impurity when cast, it was weak enough to break away or round over. now that you say you don't weld this is my new suggestion.  remove the barbolt lightly tapping on a nailset or punch until the bolt goes thru. go to a hardware store that has grade 8 and get the exact diameter and TPI in a socket cap bolt that has the barrel shaped allen head. also buy the correct size and long stem allen head that fits the new bolt. it would be a pain to drain enough bar oil every time you need to pull the bar to see the allenhead so you can get the longstem into it to loosen the bar nut.  but it might be better than buying the new cast 1/2. this was a manufacturing defect and Husqvarna might send out the cast gratis. I would try until they did it to get rid of me. you could replace the bolt with a hexhead, but you really don't need that much bite just to hold against torque for a bar nut.

      I really hope Husqvarna sends out a new cast.  because this is a very unique event that could only occur as a result of an impurity in the original magnesium casting, and that is a manufacturers defect pure and simple. good luck...

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        Actually I was going to slot the nut end of the bar stud so I could start the nut and then use a screwdriver to hold the bar stud in place while tightening the nut and the reverse to loosen. I am guessing it will not ever get as tight as is should if the t end of the bolt was not moving but it is better than nothing. 

        I do not have a clear line of sight I have to use a flashlight and look back in toward the upper right of the oil tank. I do see what you are suggesting and that would work for the front bar stud as it is directly in front of the oil plug. Unfortunately the one in question is the back stud bolt, the one closest to the trigger (accelerator?) or the one furthest from the bar. Maybe with a "bent" allen key??? 

        I am going to take it to a repair shop on Wed. (next day off) and see what they say. If it is going to run into a lot of $ I may just try the hex bolt idea if one will fit in the area. 

        I am going to try to get this repaired under warranty. Not sure how this works or how Husqvarna honors this but I bought the saw off eBay on 2/14/13 so it is a little over a year old. I looked at Husq. site and could not find anything that said how long their warranty period is but as you say this is definitely a manufacturer defect. I paid for it via PayPal so I was able to find and retrieve a receipt. 

        Thanks again for all the help! 

        Bill

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    • Karla

      Bill,

      OK -  I just checked and  looked for a good condition crankcase and can't find one used. New the crankcase is about $233.69, plus you would need a gasket $3.91, plus a new bar bolt $5.73, and plus I would recommend a new bar nut $3.91. I wish I lived nearby, and I would do the work for free, but I definitely would Not suggest this for a beginner, so If you had this repaired at a shop it would be a minimum of a 4 hr repair at a minimum $50.- /hr labor, so I would guesstimate $500.- or more for a complete like new repair.

      Plan 4 - Buy a New bar bolt, part # 537 05 13-01 @ $5.73. Buy a New bar nut too, (Do Not use the old one, save it for a spare) part # 503 22 00-01 @ $3.91. Total cost plus shipping & handling est. $15.- If you need a source for parts here is a phone # 1-800-322-4539 (They are very helpful and will answer all your questions) and link to their website: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Parts/

      Yes- "JB Weld", If the housing is metal where the bar bolt goes thru then get the "JB" for Metal, or If Plastic then the "JB" for plastic.

      Clean out the oil tank with a degreaser and make sure its thoroughly clean and let it air dry for a day. Next, goop up the "T" part of the head of the New bar bolt, both under side of the "T" and top side of the "T" with a liberal amount of "JB" weld. Fasten a wire to the threads so you can pull the new bolt into and through the oil tank. Install the chain bar (Chain not necessary at this time), Install all the parts, including the clutch/brake cover and using the new bar nut,  put some oil on the threads of the bar nut, and snug up the bar nut . Now find a good place to leave the chainsaw  "JB" weld dry, Turn the chainsaw on its side so that the oil cap is facing up and the bar nut is facing down (This will prevent any "JB" weld from running as it cures away from the bar bolt head). The bar bolt will become a part of the housing which is really-OK, after the cure time, remove the bar nut, bar, brake/clutch cover Inspect the inside of  the oil tank for any loose debris, and clean it out. Now Install the bar and chain again, and test the weld by a normal tightening of the bar nuts. If it holds, and you can tighten it up then your probably OK, and it may last for a long time.

      I only recommend this type of repair in extreme situations, where practical repairs are really not feasible, and I really want to try and keep the chainsaw,.

      Again, I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or Authorized Repair, just an experimental chainsaw person.

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      • Bill Ketner

        Karla,

        I bought the saw off eBay new 2/14/13 and paid via PayPal so I was able to find a receipt. I am going to take it to a shop and see what they will do for me as I feel this is a manufacturing defect. I certainly would not want to have to pay $500 for a repair but I guess it would be cheaper than a new saw.

        I have purchased items from Baileys before and yes they are very helpful and knowledgeable. I did think about calling them but figured since I did not buy the saw from them ... I will likely buy the new bolt and nut from them.

        I plan to call Husqvarna customer service on Tue. imagine they are closed Mon. and see what they say and then take the power head to the repair shops and see what they say on Wed. (next day off).

        I will consider the JB Weld but I think it would be hard to get the bolt in place and not get JB Weld everywhere. It (of course) is the bolt that is not in front of the oil plug but the one furthest from the bar and is at an angle from the hole. I will contemplate the JB Weld as a last resort.

        Again thank you for you help and advise. I appreciate it more than you can know.

        Bill 

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    • Karla

      Bill,

      Oh - In answer to your other question about how to judge a good chainsaw shop, Here is how I can tell: I usually check to see if I can "wheel and deal" with them for Instance If I buy one new chain can I get a second or third at a reduced price, If they say "NO", then I'm usually out of there because all they are thinking about is $$$. If the shop says "I'll have to have the saw for a month...", then I'm out of there, either he is way too busy or he really doesn't care, there is No chainsaw repair that takes a month, and thats including getting parts from "China", Lol. I can do a very complete Overhaul and repair in about 2 hours, and that includes ultrasonic cleaning of all the hardware, nuts and bolts, and parts, so No time should not take that long. I judge the shop by the demeanor, character, knowledge factors, and type of person that they seem to me (Gut reaction). I also network a little with friends to see If they have had any work done by this shop, so listen for recommendations.

      I hope this helps!

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      • Bill Ketner

        Karla,

        That does help! Thank you. One of the shops in question (there are 3 in my area) gave me the runaround several years ago and I would not go back there. Sold me something that I later found out was not necessary to fix the issue. So that limits me to just the two. 
        Thanks 
        Bill

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    • robert smith

      karla went with "JB Weld" and I had already thought about that decided not to recommend it.  it is worth a try if you rough up the surfaces and blow them clean out b-4 application.  but what if a new factory bar bolt breaks free and starts to spin out once again?

      you have no way to stop rotation because there is no tool to hold the head.   if you use "JB Weld" then do it with a bolt with the type head that can be held against rotating. like the socket cap allenhead. that way if it breaks free once again, at least you can get a longstem allenkey into hold it while tightening or loosening that barnut.  this seems to make more sense to me. and if you live in the OKC OK area I will help you replace the cast if you by the beer... im cheap, but I don't work for nuthin...

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      • Bill Ketner

        Robert,

        You and Karla are great folks! Renews my lost faith in humanity!

        Unfortunately I live in WV and the trip would be prohibitive even at the more than reasonable suds compensation for the work. 

        I am going to try the Husq. customer service route and repair shop. If it costs me too much via that route I will opt for yours or Karlas suggestions. I think I like the hex bolt idea just don't know how it will fit in the space.

        Thanks
        Bill

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    • Karla

      Bill and Robert,

      No goop or glop you could fabricate a bracket to fit inside the oil tank to act as a bar bolt stop.

      (see attached file)

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      • robert smith

        best idea yet dude.  use an old cookie baking sheet cut an oversized piece long enough to drill in both bolt holes  then knurl the edges top and bottom for the horizontal linear runs so that both rectangular heads are cradled. good idea man. great idea on the cheap, and problem solved...

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    • robert smith

      now you are speaking my language brother. this is the best idea yet. using thin metal with the edges knurled.  you could use an old baking sheet to do it. just scrape off the old cookie carbon 1st.

      drill holes for both bolts possibly. just 1 piece of metal with both bolts cradled.

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