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Service & Maintenance Question

    Jake Reindl
    Parking Brake Killing the Engine. Have removed the safety...
    Service & Maintenance Question posted July 28, 2017 by Jake Reindl 
    680 Views, 5 Comments
    Question:
    Parking Brake Killing the Engine. Have removed the safety switches
    Details:

    Model: RZ5426

    I am pulling my hair out here.

    As stated, the engine is getting killed whenever I disengage the parking brake.

    Sounded easy. Seat switch gone bad. I disconnected it, still dies.

    I pulled off the connector going to the plunger switch of the parking brake. Still dies.

    I disconnected both arm safety switches, still dies.

    Aside from the seat, the two arms and the parking break, I don't know of any other safety switches that I could check. 

    Also, the way I read the schematic on the wiring in the manual, unless I am reading it wrong, they are normally closed switches (open when butt is in seat, lever is brought in etc.), and I am reading a short on the system side of the wiring harness (of the seat switch), so if I understand correctly, that is the problem. It should be open if all safety switches are satisfied. But with all the other switches pulled off, there shouldn't be anything to produce a short, right? I have hand-over-hand'ed the wiring system looking for shorts, pinches etc to no avail. I need some assistance from here.

     

    thanks!

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    Answer

     

    • Eugene Rounds

      Make your PTO switch is off or disconnect your PTO switch connector. This should allow you disengage the brake. If so then you may have a failed PTO switch or you have a short to ground somewhere along the brown wire.

      Note: the seat switch connector contains a shorting device that activates when you disconnect it so it would be as if you are off seat even if it is disconnected. 

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      • Jake Reindl

        Thanks for the reply!

        PTO was definitely off, and I disconnected from the harness for good measure.

        This particular seat switch did not have a shorting bar on the harness, I made sure.

         

        I did find the problem last night, but not exactly sure what it was going to.

        I used my meter and traced the short back to a wiring harness that goes to the engine. It was the white wire. It had about 380 Ohms to ground. The schematic is on page 49 of the manual which can be found here:   /images/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2012_NAen/HUSO2012_NAen_RZ5426_115458927%20Rev%20B.pdf

        As you can see, the white wire goes to the "Engine Pigtail", and I am not sure what I have disconnected, but when I do, everything works normally. Blades engage, handles and brakes don't kill the engine. So whatever the white wire does, it's malfunctioning.

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        • Eugene Rounds

          That would be your magneto kill circuit. Does the white wire on the mower side still have the 380 ohms reading when disconnected or is it just the engine side? If it just the engine side then you're maybe reading the magneto kill circuit diodes resistance? Since the engine does shutdown shows the engine side kill circuit is working. When this disconnected you're just shutting the engine by shutting off the fuel solenoid.

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    • Jake Reindl

      Yes, it is only on the engine side. Here is something I had theorized. Let me know if I'm wrong.

      There is a clutch safety switch in the motor that is what is killing thing engine. I thinking maybe it is being engaged because the left wheel has been turning on its own (needs adjustment I know), and maybe that is being sensed by the clutch safety switch?

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      • Eugene Rounds

        There is only two ways of killing the engine other than simply running out gas or choking it to death. One is the magneto kill circuit which is grounded the kill the coils output. The other is the removal of the voltage that goes to the after fire solenoid on the carburetor. There is no other safety switch on the engine.

        As far the left hydro turning it is an adjustment problem but there is no safety switch involved.

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