Service & Maintenance Question
My bar adjuster bolt snapped in two on my 395 XP I purchased...
Service & Maintenance Question posted October 27, 2014 by Kevin Abbott
1036 Views, 6 Comments
Question:
My bar adjuster bolt snapped in two on my 395 XP I purchased in April 2014. I don't have a close local Husqvarna shop that does repairs, so I ordered the part online thinking I could install it myself. How do I remove the plastic locking nut so I can remove the rest of the snapped bar adjuster bolt? I don't want to break the plastic locking nut, so I haven't tried much other than trying to pull out the bolt/unscrew it. Unfortunately, you can't unscrew it since the plastic locking nut is housed in the part of the screw that has no threads.
Answer
hello kevin, the plastic retainer must be new. just lightly tap on the broken end of the bolt. first, empty the oil tank as the bolt will be extracted thru the tank. not certain if it is the bolt nearest the bar tip, if it is, then that bolt will exit thru the opening where you fill up the tank. if it is the rear bolt, nearest the throttle trigger, that one may be behind the tank and obstructed by the muffler. if it is, the muffler must be gently removed. both bolts have a rectangular shape head and seat between two raised outlines in the magnesium molded case. the outlines look like this (=). the rectangular shape head must be confined between the outlines when re-installed.
you just need to tap the broken barbolt back out of the hole and use long needle nose or hemostats to remove from oil tank. the new plastic retainers are just there to retain the barbolt.
you don't need death torque to secure the bar. I recommend you loosen with 3/8" drive and tighten with 1/4" drive from now on. or just use the Husqvarna scrench combo tool to tighten, but take it easy on the torque 100-110"lbs is good. 10 & 1/2 lbft. because of the capacity of the oil tank, it is likely both bolts exit/enter thru the tank. good luck sir. I am Robert. I repair-re-build saws professionally. I don't represent Husqvarna...
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Kevin,
Just for clarification, you stated that you broke the "bar adjuster bolt" .....
(see attached photo)
You need to remove screw, item 40 in the attached picture, and then the bar plate. item 41, and then the broken off piece of the adjuster bolt, the lock nut, and pawl. (Items 27, 28 & 29 ) should then fall out of the casing.
However, If you mean't that you broke the "Bar Bolts", then that is a different problem.
I hope this helps
Karla
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or an Authorized Repair, just an Experimental Chainsaw Person
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karla is correct. if it was the tensioner adjustment screw that broke, then disregard my entire posting.
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Yes, Karla is correct. I did not mean "bar bolts", but the tension adjustment screw that is used to adjust the tension on the chain. I was using the name assigned by Bailey's Online where I purchased the screw. They call it the "Bar Adjuster Bolt" in their description on the invoice. I purchased item 27 in Karla's image she posted. I was having problems removing the broken screw since there is a part of the screw that does not have threads where the lock nut is located. I ended up pulling and simultaneously turning the broken screw and pushing the broken part so the lock nut came out of the unthreaded part and into the threaded part. I then unscrewed the broken part of the tension adjustment screw and screwed the new tension adjustment screw back in and seated the lock nut in the unthreaded part of the screw and made sure the pawl was screwed onto it. It seems to be working just fine now.
Thanks for all of your help! Sorry for the confusion!
Kevin
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Kevin,
I am glad it worked out for you, and you got it replaced. I am also just curious how the tension screw broke ? I like doing the Forensic Diagnostics afterwards, so I'm sure that problem doesn't happen again. Do you think it was a bad "tension adjustment screw" ? Or were you trying to take something apart that got jammed up ? Or did it brake when cutting with the chainsaw ?
I have seen tension screws that were bent, but never saw one that broke, so again lots of curious questions. Usually the ones that I see bent, the individuals have a misunderstanding of how the tension system works, and maybe tension screw is a bad name for that part. But obviously the "adjuster" should only be used to take the slack out of the chain, and when the chain is on the bar and in the groove, the "adjuster" just moves the bar back and forth and takes the slack out of the chain, and thats all.
Do not ever try to put real tension on the chain with the "Adjuster" screw, because first off the chain should not be that tight on the bar but actually even a little loose (maybe an 1/8" or less of slack between the bottom links and bar, Second when using the bar, and things start to heat up and expand the chain will stretch if it is tensioned onto the bar too tight and it will permanently stretch the chain. It is normal as the bar and chain heat up under load for the chain to develop a little slack, as long as the drive links are not hanging completely below and out of the bar during using the chainsaw. The drive links should always remain in the bar groove but they could be hanging down 3/16 - 1/4 " or so, and again on a hot worked bar, that is normal. When the bar cools off, the chain will tighten back up, so do not over tension the chain.
Finally my last forensic solution is never, ever, ever tighten a chain on a hot bar. Always wait a few minutes till everything is cooled down before "re-tensioning", (I mean re-adjusting the chain on a bar). Always after making sure the chain is adjusted properly, definitely tighten up the "Bar Bolts" using your scrench or combination tool, these need to be fairly tight so that as torque is applied to the bar and chain when cutting, the bar won't move.
Sorry to get on my soap box about chain adjustments but I believe it is a bad nomenclature to call the screw a "Chain Tensioner".
I hope this helps, and I really am curious on the "adjuster screw breaking" ?
Karla
PS. I also have alot more Info about chain adjustments, but did not want to get too wordy, about what causes most of the tensioner problems, So If you need more Info or If your Installing a brand New chain for the first time, then some of the rules do change a little, Just give me a shout, and I will be glad to try and help.
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very glad to hear you were able to get the saw back into the fray. I am in a big hurry this week with a lot going on. if I had read thru your post carefully then I would not have tried to throw you that curveball. that 395 is a nice saw and it requires much attention as well as respect. was there anything karla left out? I didn't notice anything!
have fun out in the timber...
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