Service & Maintenance Question
I'm guessing perhaps this is a 4-5 year old RZ-5424,...
Service & Maintenance Question posted March 22, 2018 by Tommy Yarbrough
175 Views, 6 Comments
Question:
I'm guessing perhaps this is a 4-5 year old RZ-5424, model 965881301. New solenoid (3 pole), new ignition switch,(7 pole). I must point out that I had previously smoked a first solenoid as I was attaching the last battery terminal. Of course, I had to go buy a second one. was only a 1-2 second contact, yet a wire melted a little, so it was black taping
We have a single large red (only),from one solenoid pole to the starter. The other large red from the + battery side is accompanied by a much smaller red to the other solenoid pole, with a single, small yellow spade clip in the middle. Finally, a small black out of the harness to ground (to the Allen screw mount of the solenoid).
No headlights. The harness connect of the blade engage (safety) switch has 2 of it's 8 holes that are hollow, yet there are pins on the switch itself FOR those wire harness holes. ???. A 7 pin ignition switch is OK in that regard.
It has 1 or 2 of it's own idiosyncrasies. You have to pull the choke all the way up when the key is first turned. But then it's a feel thing to work the choke until it is running.
SO, as I turn the key to start it, it keeps popping the 20-amp fuse under the seat. NEVER the other 7.5 amp. The 20 EACH and EVERY time. That is my stopping point...over and over, without starting.
I've had virtually NO problems for the first 3-5 summers from this machine, but I'm at a loss here. I'm obviously no expert. Ideas?? It's grass cuttin' time y'all, and I SURE AS HECK can't afford any $50 an hour repairman.
We have a single large red (only),from one solenoid pole to the starter. The other large red from the + battery side is accompanied by a much smaller red to the other solenoid pole, with a single, small yellow spade clip in the middle. Finally, a small black out of the harness to ground (to the Allen screw mount of the solenoid).
No headlights. The harness connect of the blade engage (safety) switch has 2 of it's 8 holes that are hollow, yet there are pins on the switch itself FOR those wire harness holes. ???. A 7 pin ignition switch is OK in that regard.
It has 1 or 2 of it's own idiosyncrasies. You have to pull the choke all the way up when the key is first turned. But then it's a feel thing to work the choke until it is running.
SO, as I turn the key to start it, it keeps popping the 20-amp fuse under the seat. NEVER the other 7.5 amp. The 20 EACH and EVERY time. That is my stopping point...over and over, without starting.
I've had virtually NO problems for the first 3-5 summers from this machine, but I'm at a loss here. I'm obviously no expert. Ideas?? It's grass cuttin' time y'all, and I SURE AS HECK can't afford any $50 an hour repairman.
Answer
Then you can't even afford me either as I have one the cheapest rates in my area but it is $43.80 including the VAT. BTW most shops in my area are @ $70/hr plus tax. Of course you can find those fly-by night repair shops that do hatch jobs that I end up repairing anyways or have a tech that can't even find his way out of a wet paper sack with both ends open. It is better to let someone that is a professional do this work as doing it yourself can become expensive fast.
I had one customer a couple years ago that tried doing his own repairs, Replace the starter, voltage regulator, and alternator stator but still didn't fix it. Finally gave in brought it to me. It turn out to be a simple fifty cent connector that was his problem and had spent over $200 for parts he couldn't even return. Pissed and moan about having to pay me my fee.
But as for your problem it is highly likely you fried the voltage regulator and possibly the alternator stator. They are NOT reverse polarity protected and will short out if you so connect a battery. Your are lucky you didn't have the PTO in the on position it would have shorted it out the electric clutch too.
Now as for the wiring for the PTO switch, this is normal as some terminals are not use and is just easier a more common switch than to have a custom made switch.
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Thanks so much for the quick reply, Eugene. I'm afraid I don't know a whole lot about these things, so I hope you will be prepared to bump me along...IF you have the time and patience.
I don't know where the voltage regulator or the alternator stator is, nor do I know how to test either to see if they are bad or ruined. I do have a functioning, but relatively cheap meter, and a small circuit tester. I also don't know where the PTO switch is, how to diagnose it...what VTA or DVMM are. Just for the record, I DO KNOW to not connect the battery w/ reverse polarity. It is definitely connected correctly. Also for the record, I would LOVE to be able to fix this zero-turn mower WITHOUT having to yank the entire wiring harness off of it.
I have 2 wires ( 1 very small...perhaps 14 gauge ) and 1 very large red wire connected to side of the solenoid, that go to the battery. On the other side of the solenoid, I have the large red wire that goes to the starter...connected by itself...BUT there is a black wire, ( small, like the 14 gauge ), with a round "hook-eye" @ the end. I assumed it was a ground, so I connected it to the frame on one side of the solenoid mounting Allen head screws. Blew the 20 amp fuse. Disconnected the black wire from the ground connection, tried it again, and blew the 20 amp again.
Engine pigtail?? Ignition switch (housing)?? Don't get upset, but you're dealing with a NOVICE here. PLEASE try to explain your cure in layman's terms. I would of course, be thankful and in your debt.
Sincerely,
Tom
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If you don't know what a PTO switch or connector housing is then you're way over your head on this one. Plus I don't have the spare time as it is for I am currently backlogged in my shop (working 10 hrs/day 7 days/week) to train someone in the very basics of DC electrical wiring. I don't even have the time to take an apprentice in my own shop which why I have already turn six guys this year as they didn't even know what a torque wrench was.
BTW for enduser to do their own repairs only complete wiring harnesses are available; unless, you wish to do a hatchet job. For those of us that know where to get the F56 terminals, connector housings, and wire plus have the necessary crimping tools (not those el cheapo ones that does an extremely poor job of crimping) it is a lot easier. These are open barrel terminals. Plus having 40 yrs of experience doesn't hurt either. These terminals and connectors are not sold by Husqvarna or by many of the other OEMs either.
Probably the best advice I can give is to go to an auto parts store or bookstore and buy a small engine repair manual. Will not cover your particular mower but will cover the basics.
With this I am stepping out both threads and let someone else if available can work with you that does have the time take on a complete novice parts replacer.
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Not trying to sound crass, Eugene (hope U know what that means), but it would have taken you a lot less space and time to simply say:
VAT is..., PTO switch (though I'm assuming that is what I referred to as the "blade engagement"), voltage regulator and alternator stator are..., and are located..., F56 terminals are connected to...located..., than to tell me stories about your experiences with "complete novice parts replacers", and folks (according to you) that can't find their way out of a wet paper sack with both ends open.
I really didn't post a new thread for someone to "teach me" the basics of DC wiring. My sole purpose was to have someone that knows / knew why the fuse kept blowing & where to check first...second..., etc. You assumed that by my saying I am no "expert", that I am a "complete novice parts replacer". Not exactly hitting the nail on the head. I DO know a thing or three of the "basics". I can start the mower by going across the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver. The best part? The mower repairman fees in my area are $20-$30 per hour cheaper than yours.
Thanks for the 2-part, 8 paragraph lecture that just told me how great of a small engine repairman you are, & how stupid YOU THINK I am. IF you talk to your customers like you have to me here, I'm surprised that you have a shop, and customers to boot.
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Found some wires that are part of harness near front of mower. Zip ties must have been old, because two of them had broken, letting 4 wires drop down to the mower deck pulley. That burned them almost completely in half. Took 4 butt splices, and CRIMPED them, connecting all 4 back up. Put new zip ties back up where wires belonged. Mower is back to 100%. NO hatchet job...just a GOOD backyard mechanic that figures things out by process of elimination. BTW, i now know what and where the voltage regulator, stator, and PTO are, as well as a DVMM, and F56 terminals. Much appreciated...NOT.
NO CLASS, with the attitude you used to flat out tell me, in a derogatory manner no less. When that guy that had already spent over $200 bucks, then it turned out he only needed a $.50 clip to repair His mower, and charging the guy $70-80 bucks. Talk about a "hatchet job"! Very glad it wasn't me, 'cause that's just plain wrong! If that's your policy, then it's a wonder you have a business.
Yep, we can step out, and consider this thread closed. Trouble is, the moderators deleted my first reply, and will likely delete this one as well. Then, block my membership from being able to comment anymore, EVEN THOUGH I know exactly how to be polite, IF someone is polite with me. Easy peezy. No prob. So, you'll never really know what kind of "repairman" you really are.
Regards,
erik_theRed565
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Don't assume things before you know what I actually did for the customer that was already out $200.
Can understand why your post got deleted but I didn't say what I charged the customer as I actually brought the used good parts that he haven't thrown away (he did throw away some them) so he did lose some money but not all of what he spent. Of course I didn't pay him the new price but nearly half of what paid out those that I was able to recover. So I was actually out the money until I sold the parts to another customer that needed them at my used parts pricing.
BTW the customer I referred to has now done over 3K in business with since his initial contact and repair of his electrical problem.
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