Service & Maintenance Question
How do you remove the clutch cover on a 440e (which has...
Service & Maintenance Question posted October 22, 2014 by Rosalind Pappas
444 Views, 7 Comments
Question:
How do you remove the clutch cover on a 440e (which has the tool-less tension feature)? By cranking the Knob counter-clockwise, will that remove the cover? The manual just says "Loosen the chain tensioner wheel and remove the cover. Remove the transport guard".
I also do not know what the transport guard is.
thanks
I also do not know what the transport guard is.
thanks
Answer
hello Rosalind. I am Robert. fold it out and rotate CCW. that will loosen the cover. rotate the thumbwheel upward to ease the tension on the chain and bar. from this point turn CCW and remove the cover, bar and chain. use an aggressive narrow hosel blow gun to thoroughly clean out the entire clutch/oiler area. the inside of the cover must be completely cleaned as well. the bar tracks need to be evacuated by dragging a very small screwdiver front to rear, upper and lower track. the oiler holes in the bar need picked clean also.
blow the holes out and the tracks also. the bar track and oiler holes must be pristeen in order for the chain to get the lubrication it desperately needs. grease the tiny holes in the front of the bar and rotate the nose sprocket while doing so. the nose sprocket must get greased. drip oil into the needle bearings under the clutch drum also. store the saw completely empty of fluids, and always put it to bed clean. all of this and it will love you right back by getting the job done...
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thanks a lot Robert, that info is very helpful.
thanks again
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Robert, one more question.
Will the clutch cover, knob, and tension wheel all come out as one unit?
again thanks for your help
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sorry, the oiler holes in the bar are the small holes. the bigger ones are where the tensioner arbor engage the bar to slide it forward and rear which tightens/loosens chain tension. I repair/re-build saws professionally. I do not rep Husqvarna.
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you are quite welcome Rosalind. I hope to prevent most of what usually goes wrong by offering the most signifigant advice.
please, always fold out the bar clamp and loosen it before ever attempting to re-tighten a chain as it is very easy to break the tensioner system. there are many things to consider and remember where saw maintenance is concerned. refer to instruction until these tasks are committed to memory. if and when an issue arises, just chime in. I will be happy to assist in resolving any problem with your new saw.
the two most important takeaways are 1. keep it perfect clean & 2. store it empty. if it will be in storage for any length of time, start the saw after evacuating and run til starvation kill. this procedure will empty the carburetor and prevent gumming, (carb gum is a big money maker for guys like me).
good luck and fully respect that saw always.
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yes, the cover has certain components assembled into it, and they will stay in place if you are gentle. hopefully you have a compressor and a narrow hosel blow gun. you really need it to maintain your new saw. if not, the home depot has a husky that develops 4 scfm for only $99.00 they have the hose, fittings, and narrow hosel blower as well. total expense should be under $150.00 for the compressor system.
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Rosalind,
I second Roberts' thoughts about cleaning and using an air compressor if available. However, I have also done some chemical cleaning which works fairly well too. I use one part liquid ammonia (purchased in the Laundry/ Detergent aisle of most stores) to one part water or (1 cup of ammonia to 1 cup of water). It works great on bar and chains and clutch covers. I would recommend working outside, and wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, you can soak the parts for a while (15 - 30 minutes or longer), then I use a tooth brush, yes really a tooth brush and I prefer the larger tooth brush with long bristles, and brush the chain, the bar groove, bar sprocket, and any bar holes and get everything really clean. The ammonia with the solution recommended will not attack the paint or decal, so everything will look like new when done. After its thoroughly clean, dry all the water off, I use some shop towels or rags that I can throw away afterwards. You want the chain especially dry, and if you have an air compressor then blow off the excess water. Finally when your all done, I use some WD-40 oil and wipe everything down with that and spraying any parts that are metal ao they won't form any rust. The Ammonia solution is a great de-greaser and removes oil, and also tree sap and pitch from a tree, and its really fairly reasonable cleaner when you buy it by the gallon. Oh, I have also used products like "Purple Power" degreaser which works fairly well too, just follow the directions on the container, but is definitely more pricey than the ammonia solution.
I hope this helps.
Karla
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