Service & Maintenance Question
I have a new husqvarna 445 chainsaw that I just purchased....escalated
Service & Maintenance Question posted August 7, 2012 by mark purtee
3567 Views, 5 Comments
Question:
I have a new husqvarna 445 chainsaw that I just purchased. I am having trouble with the chain seizing on the bar. I am using the correct chain bar oil and I grease the nose sprocket at every fill-up. I've been cutting green oak and it seems that chips build up in the chain groove and sprocket. I've tried looser and tighter chain tensions but doesn't seem to help. This will happen about every 3 ~4 minutes. I'm so frustrated. What's wrong?
Answer
Mark, I have been thinking about your problem and I agree I don't think its a tension problem, or a bar problem, or a sprocket problem, or an oiler problem, So that just leaves one thing. The only thing left is the chain and how its sharpened and the chain condition. I am assuming you have a good chain that is not damaged from coming off of the bar a few times. (Note: I recently looked at a chain that had come off a bar, and someone asked If I could fix it, and the answer was no. The chain was so damaged on each of the drive links that it was actually hard to even put the chain back onto the bar, never mind actually having to pry each link off the bar), so with that said, my first question are your "Drive Links" Ok?, Inspect the chain carefully making sure there are no burrs or marks or twists on the drive links. I hand over hand each link, and Inspect them for any damage, this will obviously cause the chain to seize in the bar, Next with the bar and chain removed, lay the cleaned chain into the cleaned bar, and make sure the chain glides through the bar channel, both top and bottom. Either turn bar over, or you may be able to hold the bar vertically and have most of the chain lay in the channel, anyhow make sure there is No binding. If, you do have binding then Inspect that area of bothe the bar and chain, it could be a pinched channel in the bar, or the chain. If the chain glides easily in the bar all the way around the bar then your drive links are OK, and your Bar is OK. Next I would check how the chain is sharpened and the condition of the "Rakers", this is on the top of the chain and just in front of each cutter, and cleans the saw cut removing each chip, as the wood is cut. The Raker can be adjusted in height for different kinds of wood by filing the top and shape of the raker, so check that too, Finally check how the chain is sharpened, is it sharpened too aggressively, or is it just making sawdust, and Not nice wood chips. A recommended site is Oregonchain.com, they have a great tutorial on all the parts of a chain and what their purpose is, like "Drive links", "Rakers", "Cutters" etc. and how to sharpen a chain or how to make it more or less aggressive. Also, If the chain was at any time damaged or jumped off the bar, then I would just replace the chain, usually the repair is very time consuming. Or take the chain and bar to a chainsaw repair shop to have them look at the various parts of the chain, But I feel fairly confident that your problem is the chain. Also If the Saw is under warranty then take it to an Authorized Husqvarna Repair shop for their assessment. I hope this Info helps.
Oh, also If you are cutting one specific species of wood, like "Green Oak" , then there are also specific chains for specific purposes, and you may need a different type of chain, again "Oregonchain.com can explain this too you. Also changing the cutter depth for hardwoods or softwoods, If you are referring to Green Oak as being a wetter wood then dry oak, then possibly a different style of chain would be appropriate.
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I have had exactly the same problem with my 445, to the letter. I am cutting green oak and the bar sprocket seizes up. I have had the saw for less than a week and it has seized three times now. I keep my saw sharp. What I am seeing is that the sprocket is getting gummed up by the sawdust which seems to work it's way into the open lubrication holes as well. When it seizes, I end up having to stop and clean the entire bar until I can get the sprocket freed up. It is clearly not a problem caused by damage to the bar as it would not be corrected by cleaning and relubricating after which it works just fine for a while.
I haven't had this problem with my stihl saw which has no lubrication holes on the bar. My guess is that the solution is going to be that of having to buy a different brand of bar and chain for my NEW Husqvarna saw. Sometimes, things have design flaws. Good luck.
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I just bought same model today. Made three cuts in 16 " white ash, and it siezed up on the bottom of the bar. No oil adjustment. Another site suggested it could be inferior oil that comes with the saw. ???? Dealer said if siezes again, return without freeing up the chain. I miss my old Jonsered. Ignition died after 35 flawless years.
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John,
It sounds like your Dealer is working with you, which is good. And Yes it will probably help him to do a better diagnosis If he sees the saw, before you take the chain off or clean the bar when you have a problem.
I have several chainsaws and having an oil adjustment or Not should not make a big difference, unless your switching from a large 20" plus bar to a small bar, and the worse case is your small bar will just be getting a lot more oil then it needs, which is also Not a problem.
A "good bar chain oil", and getting plenty of oil on your bar is real important, I have been doing some infrared thermography on some of my saws and chains, measuring temperatures, and they get real Hot, which is normal, but also the reason it needs lots of oil. A good oil, I like Husqvarna but I'm sure any of the New recommended Manufacturer Chainsaw oils will be fine but there are some companies selling oils for $7.95 or less, compared to $10.00 a gallon, and its Not worth the problems for $2.- using the cheaper oils. I usually buy it by the case (4 gallons) which is cheaper from Husqvarna.
Talking about older saws, yes they were built alot different, I still have my old Homelite 330, and I love it, Its a 1982 model, so I think if my math is correct its going on 30 years plus and still running. I have also been the original owner. But some differences are they were much heavier, they did not have the engine RPM's of the newer chain saws, and all the parts were made of "metal" with exception of some rubber boots and grommets.
So what are the new chainsaw problems:, I think one problem is the new speeds my New 455 runs at WOT over 13000 RPM's, which means the chain speed is moving faster too, hence the additional heat, and additional oil. I don't think the bars are a problem with the oil hole, however they will plug up when sawdust is combined with oil, some saws that I have fixed for friends, I had to scrape the saw dust oil compound out of the saw. On my own saws which I have 6 of them (Homelite, Echo, Poulan, and Husqvarna) I have never ever had a clogged bar, and never had to scrape it clean just a little blow with air compressor.
So what is the difference? Just my opinion but the chainsaw should be making big wood chips when its cutting not sawdust! I keep my saw very sharp, like a razor and yes I have cut my fingers on the chain, when I forget to put gloves on before removing the chain. I also make sure I file and shape my raker links (depth gauge links) to the proper depth usually for hardwoods. Keeping the raker shaped properly also helps clean out the chips from the wood cut, and not end up under the chain and in the bar groove. I keep a watchful eye on not only what I'm cutting but also check I'm getting oil, and that I'm still making big wood chips when I'm cutting. When I'm not getting big chips or oil, I stop cutting, and sharpen the chain and add oil or If I'm cutting a lot of wood I switch chains to a sharpened one and add oil to continue.
I hope the above information helps, I know its a little wordy but its a good topic to discuss.
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Here's an update on my situation. I purchased a new husqvarna brand chain. I didn't have any problems. I think the key is the wood chip size. As you chain dull it begins producing a finer chip that begins to clog the sprocket nose. I think Karl's post regarding chain type for the wood you are cutting has merit. If I have anymore trouble I will research a different chain type for hardwood. Thanks everyone.
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