Service & Maintenance Question
Here's the story: Last summer I had a small grass fire on the mowing deck of my GTH2548. No serious damage, but it melted the wires going from the electric clutch to the connector at the wiring harness. One wire melted all the way to the clutch body. When the PTO is disengaged, the tractor runs great, but of course there is no mower.
Problem 1: So, I pulled the clutch, drilled a small hole into the housing where the one wire had burned off, and used a brad, solder and some liquid epoxy to reattach the bad wire. I locked the clutch into a vice and hooked up the wires to a power supply, and it appears to engage. Unfortunately, before I realize that the connection to the housing was not made to be accessed/serviced, I had loosened the bolts on the top plate (there are springs between the plate and the housing). I didn't pay attention to how many turns it took, so I don't know if I torqued the bolts back down properly (i.e., could I have overtightened the plate?).
Problem 2: The fire melted half of the connector to the wiring harness. It appears that there is some kind of diode or something that is part of the circuit there, but I can't figure out how to replicate it, and I'd rather not buy a whole harness.
Problem 3: I hooked up the clutch to the shaft, then hooked the wires back up to the harness by splicing in just below the connector (there was just a smidge of wire left), but now the second I engage the PTO switch, the onboard voltmeter goes crazy and the clutch does not engage.
My questions are, how can I tell at this point if I need a new clutch, a new PTO switch, or a new connector (ideally without having to buy a new harness if so). I don't mind paying to replace bad parts, but I don't want to make unnecessary purchases or take out some other part because I replaced the wring thing.
I really like this mower and would like to get a lot more service out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Answer
THe only diode in the circuit is internal to the electric clutch. The normal resistance of these clutches is 1.7 ohms or greater with a 7 amp max current draw with 3-4 amps being the norm.
For the connector on the mower side you get a Rotary PN 12923 Connect kit. The PTO side comes with clutch assembly.
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Thanks for the answer. I'm a nube -- how should I test the resistance/amp draw?
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With this comment I would yes you would not know how the test equipment.
Here something you can do easy and that is to install a 7 fuse in line and if the fuse blows then you need a new pto clutch assy. Now the 532179335 replacement clutch will set you back at $130 or more. And when you replace this unit you would need make the anti rotation arm is engaged in the clutch housing or you will destroy the new clutch assembly. It retaining bolt also need torquing to 55 ft-lbs.
Personally if your not familiar with procedures I would be letting a professional do the work as it can be quite an expensive mistake if you get things wrong.
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Okay, thanks, I also have two other questions:
Thanks!!
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Yes it is possible. It probably better if I link you to service manual for the Warner Pto clutch that explains the adjustment and testing procedure.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-g4TpKUJnh7V3NGaERkbElOVnM
Also here a picture of the connector I was referring to:
http://tewarehouse.com/12923_3_3
You just cut the un-need end splice to the current PTO wires. I was wrong about being for the mower wiring harness side but should able pick that at any good auto supply store. It is 2 terminal Packard 56 connector. I would to send you one but I have order this year's stock yet as I am waiting the 1st of May as I don;t normally need these too often and I am still research some other connectors from the same supplier.
I going be out place for a while as I got to reinstall the shop's computer operating due someone not plugging memory in completely and it lost some of the main operaiting programs.
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Sorry, one more thing -- where can I get the part you listed? doesn't show up in my searches. Thanks!
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Eugene, thanks for the extra info. as it turns out, the connector you suggested won't work for me because I have a Husqvarna, which does have a diode in the connector. That said, your info should be enough for me to get what I need -- thank you!
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Tnx Chris I wasn't aware that there was physical diode in the harness as one wasn't shown in the wiring diagram.
Again tnx for the heads up on this.
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Here's my last entry.
I hadn't mentioned earlier that the fire on the mower deck also melted the PTO clutch wires, one of which burned all the way down to the clutch housing, Those clutches really aren't built to be disassembled easily, so I used a very fine drill bit to tap in where the wire had burned off, and then I inserted a copper brad that I'd wired a length of wire to. to keep the brad in, I cleaned the entire housing thoroughly to remove all grease, then I put a big dollop of epoxy over both wires to keep them stable. I know, major hack job, but desperate times, right? Anyway, I hooked up 12 volts to the clutch on my workbench to make sure it still engaged, before putting it back on the mower.
So getting back to this weekend, thanks to you and a few other folks, I was able to test the PTO switch, the PTO circuit, and the diode that is inline just before the clutch clips into the main harness and confirm that everything worked (bypassing the melted clip without messing up the diode was another hack, but it worked). I blew a couple of fuses figuring out the polarity on the new clutch wiring, but I was able to get the clutch hooked up properly. At first it wouldn't engage until I pulled the PTO switch, which is expected, but then it would stay engaged after I pushed the PTO switch back in. Turns out that in my attempt to take apart the clutch I had messed up the clutch brake settings. A few turns of the wrench later, the brake was reset and the clutch worked perfectly. Moment of truth was when I reattached the mower deck and ventured into the now knee-high grass.
The mower performed perfectly. In fact, I think the adjustments I made the the brake actually improved performance.
Final verdict: without the forum community, I would have spent up to $500 to get the mower towed and fixed, but instead I got it running for about $1 and a few hours of my time. I am going to budget for the inevitable failure of my hack job wiring (don't worry, it ain't pretty, but it's safe), but that day may not come before I am ready to retire the mower anyway.
Thanks again!
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