Service & Maintenance Question
I have a rancher 455 chain saw. Since new the chain...
Service & Maintenance Question posted June 29, 2018 by Jim DeRosier
112 Views, 7 Comments
Question:
I have a rancher 455 chain saw. Since new the chain tensioner has very little tensioning adjustment. I just put new bar, clutch cup and chain,(all genuine Husqvarna) and there is less than 1/4" adjustment left. Generally I am never able to use chains effectively as they never make it past the first sharpening
Answer
What bar length, pitch, and drive link count?
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Jim.
It sounds like you have a couple of questions. First about the tensioner, something is wrong there obviously, and from your description. I am guessing that you have a mismatch of either the drive sprocket to the bar, or the chain to the bar. You need to make sure that the New drive sprocket is the same as the pitch on the bar, and that the pitch of the chain also matches the bar. If you changed the pitch of the drive sprocket, then you will get exactly the symptom that you are describing since the drive sprocket on a different pitch will be a larger diameter. The Model 455, can accommodate either a .325 pitch or a 3/8 pitch as described in your owners manual. Again, Bar, Chain, and Drive Sprocket on Clutch have to be all the same pitch, and that will fix your tensioner problem.
Second problem, Not being able to get enough sharpenings out of a chain, and just getting one sharpening from a chain. Something is really wrong there, I usually on my Model 455 chains can sharpen at least a couple times with a chain grinder, and an additional 5 - 6 more sharpenings using a file to just dress the chain up between grinding.
It sounds like you are over sharpening or in-correctly sharpening your chain, or Your cutting some really nasty wood (like trying to cut up tree roots) that is tearing up your chain and requiring severe re-sharpening. One suggestion is go to the LINK - "Oregonchain.com" and read about the correct method of sharpening. here is the link: /pdf/en/?site=oregon
My method, Is to dress the chain with a hand file both a round file of the correct size for the chain, and then a flat file for the rakers and cutting height. I check my chain before, during, and after use when cutting wood. If I think or in most cases know that I hit something, I stop and check the chain immediately. I always carry a couple spare chains with me and can easily swap chains and continue cutting if I am logging up a large tree and just want to get it done. I watch the wood chips during each cut and when starting on the next cut. If I start to see saw dust and I am not making wood chips, its time to stop and dress the chain a little, Usually 2-3 swipes with the round file on both left and right cutter teeth is all that is required to bring it razor sharp again, and most dressings do not require filing the rakers. After several trees that I have cut up and several re-dressing with a hand file, I find its time to take the chain to a professional chain grinder, the reason being is ideally you want to keep the left and right cutters at the same length, however when hand filing this rarely happens even with someone that says they have always sharpened with a hand file, I have found even myself on occassion just slightly changing the angle or sharpening the right cutters a little more then the left. cutters over a period of several re-dressing of the chain with a file. When you put the chain in a professional grinder it will correct both the angle and the length of the left and right cutters to a perfect length. Then you can go back to hand filing again for several multiple times. I hope that all makes sense ! So don't use a profesional chain grinder constantly or yes the chain will disappear quickly, always dress your chain with a hand file before, after , and during use. Keeping the chain sharp and making nice wood chips will save your chain, once the chain is dull and your making sawdust the chain will wear quickly since it can't cut and makes heat, and the chain disappears.
Finally If your cutting really nasty wood, then again look at the Oregonchain Link, and you may need a different style of chain, like instead of a chisel tooth, maybe a skip tooth, and there are Many different types that tolerate dirty wood, like if there is alot of sand in the bark of the wood, etc. Also If your hitting really hard stuff that is tearing up the chain and requiring severe re-sharpenings to correct the problem, then you may need something like a "Carbide" chain.
I hope the above information helps, and sorry to be so wordy but it is a good topic that chainsaw users should be aware of.
If I can be of any additional help, Please let me know on this forumn
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair Service, just an experimental chainsaw person
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The reason asked about the bar length and other specs as there is a 20" .325 chain that has 80DL and normally Husqvarna uses the 78 DL for the .325 20" bar so may he is needing a 79 drive link chain instead of a 80 drive link chain.
Just got to know what he has now.
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Hi Eugene & Jim,
Yup. It would be helpful to know what Jim is working with, and what he has now. That adds another dimension to helping solve the problems.
If i can be of any additional help, Please let me know I have seven of these Model 455's right now, so i am familiar with them too. and i can always go check or look at the one of the ones that I have to try and help, But I am sure its a mismatch somewhere, either chain, bar, or drive sprocket.
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Jtim.
I know Eugene is helping you discover what is wrong with your bar and chain, but I had one more thought. It is also possible that you do have everything correct and there is No Mismatch, then I would suggest checking the chain tensioner too.
Here is my method, and I did find a bent tensioner threaded bolt on a chainsaw (Not specifically on a Model 455) a few times which gave the symptom that the tensioner could not take up all the chain I remove the clutch cover, and then thoroughly clean the inside of the cover, I use some spray on de-greaser and a old toothbrush, and clean all the dirt out of the cover, then let it dry in the sun or blow it dry with a compressor. Spray a little WD 40 on the tensioner bolt and parts, then while holding the clutch cover in your hand turn the tensioner screw clockwise first then counterclockwise observing the pin that would normally move the bar. The tensioner screw should move very easily like if you were turning a screwdriver with two fingers. Make sure it moves freely the entire length of its travel in both directions. I have seen where the Tensioner bolt got bent and it would not travel the entire length of he tensioner bolt, it would only go like half way.
This would give a similar symptom to your problem, If you can't tension the chain all the way. Also when you re-install the clutch cover onto the chainsaw, It should still move that bar and chain very easily. Never use an excessive force when using the chain tensioner. The chain tensioner is Not really designed to tighten the chain, It is simply there to move the bar and take the slack out of the chain. Once you have the slack out of the chain with the chain tensioner, you then tighten the Bar Bolts to hold the bar and chain in that position.
I am still curious to what you discover as the Problem, and hopefully If its a Mismatch of Bar, chain, or drive sprocket, then Eugene will help you discover what is wrong.
Please Let us know what you find as the problem, that helps us all learn, and solve future problems.
Thanks, Karla
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair Service, just an experimental chainsaw person
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I have checked the tensioner for any bad or bent parts. I have ordered new clutch cup, bar and chains so I am certain all match. If this doesn't fix the situation I will address the forum again.
20" bar, chain number H80-72 3/8" X .050". I cut primarily black walnut and red elm.
Thank you for all your input. Jim
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Now that I got a 455 in the shop. I can provide a little more info.
Yes the 3/8 72 DL (drive link) is the chain that they sell for this bar length. One on this saw's bar length however after a little wear on both the bar and chain you can have one drive link removed as long as the tail of the bar does not hit the sprocket. I physically removed one DL from a new 72 DL chain (making it a 71 DL chain) and it fit fine of the bar that is new but has the paint worn off the bar track (rails). The tail comes very close to the sprocket. This will give nearly 3/4 length of of the overall adjustment range just be aware as the chain lengthen due wear it will get to a point that the drive links will no longer properly enter sprockets gears and cause premature wear of these items.
Also note that there be a slight skip on the 71 DL chain along with two facing the same direction at the skip. This will affect the performance, just looks a little odd.
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