Service & Maintenance Question
How to troubleshoot keyless Smartswitch ignition...
Service & Maintenance Question posted October 10, 2016 by Ted Tanaka
5343 Views, 23 Comments
Question:
How to troubleshoot keyless Smartswitch ignition (flashes 6 times, won't start)
Details:
I have a riding lawn mower with the SmartSwitch keyless ignition. It worked fine for one year, now it fails to work. I ordered a replacement switch, but it has the same behavior, which points to a wiring issue somewhere in the mower. I also tried resetting the SmartSwitch with the 1231231231 code, but that didn't help.
Here's what happens:
- Off
- Press it, blinks blue
- Enter security code
- Blinks green
- Press green button to start
- All buttons blink 6 times, does not start
- Back to blinking green
Does the 6 blinks mean something?
Any idea how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks!
Answer
It indicates that the engine has failed to start for some unknown reason like it out fuel. In shop setting we bypass the igntion switch temporary to troubleshoot the engine problems. Need to see you have spark and fuel making to the cylinder among other things.
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Great, thanks for the info! I'll check the fuel when I get home tonight. Out of curiosity, how do you bypass the ignition switch? I tried connecting the red wire (C1-2) from connector 1 (hoping this goes to the starter solenoid) of the SmartSwitch directly to power. The starter moved briefly, then never moved again. Unfortunately I can't access the starter solenoid directly due to the engine cover. (Now that I looked at the wiring schematic again, I'm not sure C1-2 is the correct wire, might be C1-5 instead.) Maybe I just need to take the cover off?
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So we can get on the same page what model and year mower are you working on?
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I have a 2015 Sears Craftsman Turn Tight Garden Tractor Non-CA (24HP engine, 48" mower deck) model #20401 that is rebranded from Husqvarna. I'm hoping that the SmartSwitch wiring is the same across tractors.
Here is the tractor:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-24hp-48-8221-hydrostatic-transmission-turn-tight-174-garden/p-07120401000P
Thanks!
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Great the numbering number different but the wire color appears to be the same.
Red is from the voltage regulator. For the starter solenoid it is the white wire (C1-5). The magneteo kill is the Black/White wire (C1-6, image not clear enough to 100% terminal numbers). It would need to disconnect for the engine to have spark.
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PS. make sure the PTO is disengaged and the mower is in neutral as it will start in gear with the magneteo kill disabled.
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Converting from smart switch to key switch
To convert a craftsman G5100 917204010 to a key switch use wiring harness #501132901 from a 917204080 less than 40 dollars including shipping from Husqvarna and switch #532193350 less than 15 dollars off ebay. All plugs hook up but the brake safety switch appears not to, it will hook up. This plug looks a little different it doesn’t have the little dog on it for the clip that holds it from coming unhooked.
Also use body harness 194276 paid about 22 dollars including shipping. Also use pto switch 582107601 it cost 10 bucks ( the pto switches have the same markings on them but the books have different part numbers) Like wise the seat switches show different numbers I used 401545 about 15 dollars. I didn’t have all the parts when I started but this should only take about 2 hours to convert All safety's work only thing doesn't doesn't work is I don't have a switch for the headlights.
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Awesome, that's very helpful! Yeah, the numbers aren't very clear in the diagram, I think it may be C1-3 for the black/white wire (in case anyone else reads this in the future). I was looking for the kill switch wire to the coil, thanks for clarifying it's the black/white wire to the "ignition unit". My plan is to directly jump the white wire (C1-5) which goes to the starter solenoid to 12V to start the engine, then connect the black/white wire to ground to kill the engine, just so I can use the darn tractor until I figure out what to do.
I'm thinking about ordering a regular keyed switch and wiring it up to replace the keyless switch. Do you think if I just do the basic wiring the tractor will work? Basically I'm hoping I can ignore Connector 2, which I'm guessing is just safety switches.
Thanks!
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I had a bad starter solenoid, and now jumping the new starter solenoid to 12 volt engages the starter motor. However, the engine doesn't "fire" at all, as if there's no fuel or spark. Verified gas is in the tank and a spark plug tester shows that there is spark. The SmartSwitch still shows the same behavior, goes green after entering the code, then all lights blink 6 times. (This tractor is only one year old with 20 hours on it, it was working fine until one day it wouldn't start. I also replaced the SmartSwitch.)
At this point, I want to replace the SmartSwitch with a keyed ignition (bypassing all safeties), and if I can hotwire the tractor, I'll know which wires to connect to a new ignition switch. I thought engaging the starter should be enough to start the engine, but apparently not. Perhaps I have a fuel shutoff solenoid?
There is a connector that goes to the engine with a black, red, and white wire. I'm guessing I need to wire that one up as well, but it doesn't match my SmartSwitch wiring diagram (which shows black/white, orange, and red wires to the engine) so I'm not sure what the wires do.
Any ideas on how I can hotwire the tractor to get it started?
Thanks!
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Sorry for some I can't access the sears diagrams today as there no images but sounds like the anti after fire solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor isn't powered. It must be power during starting and running times to allow the engine to pull fuel through the carburetor main nozzle. +12 VDC. frame/engine crankcase the return path/ground
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Just wanted to give a big thanks to Eugene for his answers! I successfully replaced the SmartSwitch with a Husqvarna keyed ignition from amazon for about $20, some stranded 16 gauge wire, and various connectors/splices from Advanced Auto. Wired up the starter solenoid, magneto kill switch, and fuel solenoid. Verified all the wiring first by manually connecting them with alligator clips and starting/stopping the tractor. (Still haven't wired up the hour meter or lights yet).
I also had a bad starter solenoid, and the way the SmartSwitch works, there's no way to troubleshoot the system. It just blinks 6 times if there's a problem. Plus it's $150 for a new SmartSwitch and a 3-week backlog. So I'm really glad I got rid of that thing.
I was originally intimidated by the complex wiring harness going into the SmartSwitch, but wiring a basic ignition switch (without safeties) is actually quite straightforward and only requires 3 wires in addition to the battery. For those wanting to do the same, the starter solenoid is pretty self-explanatory, and of the 3 wires that go to the engine connector, one is the magneto kill switch, one is the fuel solenoid, and one is from the regulator to recharge the battery.
As a side note, I asked a local shop what it would cost to do it, and they said they couldn't bypass the safeties for legal reasons.
Thanks again!
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Just a side note here. If it was in the shop here I could bypass the Smart switch and still had the safeties working as others said it is a legal liability issue if the safeties are bypassed but customers are all the time bypassing them. When these comes in the shop I make notes in the customer files that this is case so an issue ever arises I can at least show that it was noted on previous date.
I simply don't bypass them except when troubleshooting a particular problem. These safety features are there for a good reasons.
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Converting from smart switch to key switch
To convert a craftsman G5100 917204010 to a key switch use wiring harness #501132901 from a 917204080 less than 40 dollars including shipping from Husqvarna and switch #532193350 less than 15 dollars off ebay. All plugs hook up but the brake safety switch appears not to, it will hook up. This plug looks a little different it doesn’t have the little dog on it for the clip that holds it from coming unhooked.
Also use body harness 194276 paid about 22 dollars including shipping. Also use pto switch 582107601 it cost 10 bucks ( the pto switches have the same markings on them but the books have different part numbers) Like wise the seat switches show different numbers I used 401545 about 15 dollars. I didn’t have all the parts when I started but this should only take about 2 hours to convert
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i have a rz54i with that crazy smart switch that has stopped working .
could someone tell me which wires i need to make it run ...
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In order to change over to a non smart switch several harness changes must done. Simply getting the engine to start and run isn't the problem as you need to shut it down and even then the PTO will not work without wiring changes.
Due liability issues this needs to done a professional that has training required in order to make sure all the safeties are still functional.
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For me, it seems the SmartsSwitch was fine, but looked to be faulty. In actuality, my starter solenoid was bad. The problem is you simply can't tell from the SmartSwitch, it just blinks. With a regular key, you can somewhat tell what's going on based on what happens (nothing, clicking, engine turns over but doesn't catch, etc.)
So before you spend $150 on a new SmartSwitch (and wait weeks for it to be delivered), and find it behaves the same (seemingly broken), I would recommend starting the engine by connecting power directly to the starter solenoid. If the engine doesn't turn over, you have a different issue. Even if it turns over (and it won't actually run until you have power to the fuel shutoff), it's still possible one of the safeties are engaged and the switch is fine. As a side note, I also had the seat safety go bad on me, and I had to hard-wire it.
My guess is that there is a higher chance of something else going bad than the switch itself.
After spending a long time rewiring a keyed ignition into the system, if I could do it all over again, I would simply learn how to temporarily bypass the switch to troubleshoot the system.
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Ted, This is what we in the shops do for troubleshooting purposes only as it is much to just to troubleshoot and find the actual failure then do a bunch unnecessary rewiring bypassing the safeties.
Several years ago in my area we had a customer that bypass the RIO (Reverse Inhibit Operation) setup. Later he was mowing in reverse and ran over his toddler son. Needless to say the son die from his injuries. I would rather put up with the inconvenience of the safety system then have that happen because of something I did.
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Then you need to be checking PTO clutch electric coil as it supplied through that switch and if it pulling more 7 amps you will a new one them too. In the current config the Pto switch does not supply power that PTO clutch directly hence it would need to rewired to use a standard setup. The PTO coil should be a resistance of 1.7 ohms or higher anything less indicates a partial to full short. Also the fuel solenoid could be shorted. Both of can let the magic smoke of out that smart switch.
Also if you applied power to the ignition coils it short them out. They are only intended to grounded.
The current wiring diagram is in the owners manual.
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Yes I understand the switch cost but on a $3,000 mower it is not too awful bad considering it is loaded with electronics. Just think of the poor fellow that has a $1200 mower and the electric PTO cost $300. plus labor. I had one customer last year that replaced his and destroyed the brand new PTO as he started his engine. He forgot to install the anti-torque bar. He ended up have to buy a second PTO.
Yes these solenoid can be tested. Here is the info for the two two solenoids and the PTO coil.
Fuel Solenoid
Starter Solenoid
PTO Electric Clutch
There one other test that requires disconnection of the voltage regulator from the mower's electrical system but staying in contact for the engine making sure it isn't charging more than 16vdc. I do this test whenever I know someone has been jump starting the mowers as if the battery is connected backwards if will short out the regulator and any on-board electronics.
This is why I don't plug & play on these mowers or any other one as it can get expensive very fast if something isn't done right.
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HELP … I've got a Husqvarna RZ 46i with the smart switch .. It won't light up at all .. has power, solenoid is good and all controls are in the right position for starting and still nothing .. I'm assuming the "so called" smart switch is bad … If anyone know how to replace this thing with a simple set of toggle switched or a key switch, I would be so grateful for the help to figure this out … the switch is a 584790602 ...
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I can't simply explain the conversion to non smart switch due legal and liability issues.
But it does involve changing the ignition switch, seat switch, a new ignition switch connector, rewiring the motion control arms, rewiring the PTO switch, and rewiring the brake switch. All this is required to keep the safety systems operational and working as intended.
I already had one customer that someone else did a conversion without the safety system intact on a rider. He got knock off his mower by a tree limb and the mower continued to mow without him and smacked his brand new car. Him, the previous tech, and the auto insurance company are still fighting it out in court. I was put in the middle if this fight as I had straighten out the bypassed wiring and install the correct switches. I was not informed ahead of time that he and the auto insurance company planned on filing a lawsuit against the other tech. I would have not even touched it if I had known.
Now ZTR normally will stop if the motion arms are released but the mowing deck and engine will continue to operate if the safeties are bypassed. Still a very unsafe condition.
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