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Service & Maintenance Question

    fred assink
    I have a husqvarna 450 x torque e-series chainsaw, that is...escalated
    Service & Maintenance Question posted June 19, 2013 by fred assink 
    4562 Views, 6 Comments
    Question:
    I have a husqvarna 450 x torque e-series chainsaw, that is overheating, to the point that the bar is turning blue and the clutch is burning up. One of the symptoms is that it bogs down under pressure, to the point of stopping. No I am not using it at this time, I quit when I noticed how hot it was.
    I know someone is going to say it is not getting enough bar chain oil, but it is!, the brake is not partially closed and the unit is clean, I am sure to clean it after I use it. I am not new at this, but I'm not arrogant enough to say that I am an expert, we use about five cords of wood a year for heating, and cut and split this wood ourselves, have been doing this for over 10 years. I'm thinking that something may be wrong with the clutch, anybody have any ideas?
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    Answer

     

    • Karla

      Fred,

      Just a little analysis:

      Obviously the bar is getting way too hot, If its turning the metal blue which is also changing the temper of the steel. I have been studying the heating of bars using an Infrared heat gun, I am not sure at what temperature the bar turns blue, typically bars that I have mave noticed after 1 minute of full throttle with no load the chain will heat the bar up to somewhere between 140 - 190 degrees. You definitely would not want to touch a bar after running for a while.

      You did not say what length bar you were using, but I have noticed that the shorter bars, ie. 12 " length heat up the fastest and seem to get the hotest, and the longer bars ie. 20 inch stay the coolest, but I have not had a bar turn blue.

      Some things to think about: I don't believe there is anyway for the clutch to transfer heat to the chain and then to the bar, however it is important that the chain and chainsaw are running at the proper speed, and yes the clutch or the engine could effect the chain speed.

      Next, Its real important that the drive sprocket which the clutch mates with is the proper pitch for the chain pitch, and if the bar has a nose sprocket, that all of these parts are the proper ones to match.

      Next, Tension of the chain will definitely cause heat, I have tightened up a chain tight and it causes too much resistance of the chain to the bar, and will heat the bar up fast with no load or Not cutting anything, also the chain should not be too loose or run the risk of the chain coming off the bar, but you do need some looseness.

      Finally, And you already stated lubricant oil which reduces the resistance of the chain to the bar is very important. Oh I did not mention that the proper sharpening of the chain will also effect the heating of the bar, because a dull chain has to work harder, and makes smaller chips or sawdust and the operator has a tendency to push harder on the saw.

      So here is what I would check: check the drive sprocket, the bar, the nose sprocket, and the chain that everything is a match for the same pitch. If  your Not sure If everything is a match, have a Husqvarna Authorized Dealer look at everything for you.

      Next, Check the engine RPM's, and check the speed at which the clutch engages, their should be specs for your specific saw, Typical numbers for my 455 chainsaw are 2800 RPM's idle speed, 3800 clutch engages, and 12,500 RPMs Full throttle at No load. I check mine with a digital tach, which are actually very reasonable today and easy to use for 2 stroke engines. Improper RPM's will definitely cause heating because the chain is not cutting at the proper speed.

      Finally double check the chain tension is Not too tight, also a mistake that alot of chainsaw operators make is to adjust the chain slack when the chainsaw is hot," Do not adjust the tension on a hot chainsaw! " Wait till it cools down, give it a good 5-10 minutes after running a hot saw, the links will be loose but this is normal,  when the saw cools down the chain will tighten up, and after it is completely cool check tension.

      Oh, and already stated but don't forget the bar oil!

      I hope this analysis helps!

      PS. A bad clutch will not engage at the proper speed, which will probably mean you have bad or weak clutch springs but, you need to check the speed of engagement.

       

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    • Karla

      Fred,

      Some additional information:

      I looked up the manual for your 450 chainsaw. Your chainsaw is a .325 pitch, and .050 gauge, so your drive sprocket needs to be a 7 tooth spur gear, (which is easy to count on the drive gear), your Nose sprocket on the bar needs to be a 10 tooth sprocket, ( which is easy to count if you mark one of the nose sprocket teeth, and manual turn the nose sprocket and count the teeth), the chain needs to be a .325 pitch and .050 gauge chain. If that is all correct, than that leaves engine speed or clutch engagement speed as possible problems. Also your Manual lists idle speed as 2700 RPM's which is fairly close to my 455 chainsaw which is 2800 Rpms, So I'm estimating that your clutch engagement should be 3700-3800 RPMs, and your Full throttle, no load speed about 12000-13000 Rpms.

      Oh, one more thought about Nose sprockets on Bars, its important to clean the nose sprocket periodically with a degreaser and cleaner and make sure that nose sprocket spins freely, than re-grease the nose sprocket, and periodically during use pump a little more grease into the nose sprocket. I use one of those hand grease cartridges made for nose sprockets, and usually only give it 2 pumps of grease.

      Oh, If the engine RPMs are incorrect, I would recommend taking it to a Husqvarna Dealer because there are a number of reasons why the speed could be wrong or out of a.djustment

      Just some more Information.

       

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      • fred assink

        Thank you, i will check these this weekend!

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    • fred assink

      Just for an update, i bought a new bar a new chain a new needle bearing and a new sprocket. One of those four seems to have fixed it. Needle bearing and sprocket were very easy to replace. If i had to guess it was the sprocket that was causing the problem, it was very worn. thank you Karla your comment about the sprocket meeting up with the chain correctly, made me change out the worn sprocket. Fred

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    • Karla

      Fred,

       

      I am glad you found the problem, by the way If you ever have to change the drive sprocket again, Take a look at Oregon Chains Power Mate system, its a drive sprocket with removable rim which is the gear, its only a couple dollars more than the standard drive sprocket but the advantage is just the rim can be replaced in the future, and the rims only are like $5.95, so the long term cost is a big savings.

      I installed them on my Husqvarna chainsaws and love them.

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      • fred assink

        Thanks Karla, ill do that.

         

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