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Service & Maintenance Question

    Tim Carney
    What is the cylinder head bolt torque on a Husky 55?
    Service & Maintenance Question posted October 4, 2014 by Tim Carney 
    1720 Views, 6 Comments
    Question:
    What is the cylinder head bolt torque on a Husky 55?
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    • robert smith

      hello tim.

      120"lbs. use the small lb/in click type torque wrench. I avoid the lb/ft bigger clicker while working with such small hardware.

      I believe the range is 9.6lb/ft-11.0lb/ft

      but I am afraid to put 132inch/lbs on those dinky little bolts.  10lbs is plenty...

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    • robert smith

      and fyi. I don't represent Husqvarna.  I repair/re-build saws professionally.  if you should get stumped at any point during the re-do, just give us a shout.  i'll be glad to help out...

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    • robert smith

      engineershandbook.com is widely regarded as the go-to torque table when values aren't readily available for listed equipment.  grade 8 hex head cap screws in 4-5mm are under the listed range. but the Husqvarna script is 9.6-11lb/ft.

      or 115.2 inch/lb - 132"/lb...  make the lighter choice is my recommendation...

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    • Tim Carney

      Thank you, that is very helpful and some good advice. If I get stumped,I will certainly give you a shout.

      Thanks again!

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      • robert smith

        you are welcome sir.  be gentle and never force anything while doing that upper. and keep in mind that ethanol likely caused the pre-mature loss of compression.  I just read an article in scientific American that explains the absence of molecular bond between jaso 2 cycle oil, and ethanol.  so whenever ethanol enters the combustion chamber, it is likely being vaccumed in with absolutely no protection accompanying it.

        refined straight gasoline forms a molecular bond with 2 cycle oil, and retains that bond until the fuel is burned, or until the refined gas evaporates, leaving the oil behind...

        also, replace the fuel lines, filter, and vaccum hose.  and very carefully inspect the intake boot. if it has a crack, it allows additional air to be vaccumed in which leans out the atomization of mixture, and leads to more friction/heat, and therefore, pre-mature top-end failure.

        so the moral to the story is. drive 5 miles out of route to buy straight fuel if need be...

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    • robert smith
      robert smith said:

      you are welcome sir.  be gentle and never force anything while doing that upper. and keep in mind that ethanol likely caused the pre-mature loss of compression.  I just read an article in scientific American that explains the absence of molecular bond between jaso 2 cycle oil, and ethanol.  so whenever ethanol enters the combustion chamber, it is likely being vaccumed in with absolutely no protection accompanying it.

      refined straight gasoline forms a molecular bond with 2 cycle oil, and retains that bond until the fuel is burned, or until the refined gas evaporates, leaving the oil behind...

      also, replace the fuel lines, filter, and vaccum hose.  and very carefully inspect the intake boot. if it has a crack, it allows additional air to be vaccumed in which leans out the atomization of mixture, and leads to more friction/heat, and therefore, pre-mature top-end failure.

      so the moral to the story is. drive 5 miles out of route to buy straight fuel if need be...

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