General Product Question
help please I purchased a factory refurbished 445 chainsaw with a 18" bar some time ago to cut down a unwanted tree. Well, I never got the saw to start and it always seemed like there was something hungup. I finally tired starting it without a bar or chain on and wow did it run good. Put the bar and chain on and back to frustration. I looked online and thought maybe it was that the chain had the wrong pitcc so bought a 18" .325 and it seemed to spin but got very hot. When I watched youtube videos, I noticed that chain moving smoothly when the saw was off and realized I can't do that. So, next try was I went to the store and got a new 16" bar and chain to try that thinking maybe the 18" bar and chain just were damaged. When the cover is off, I can move the sprocket and the chain seems to move smoothly, but when mounting the cover I noticed the tensioner is pushing the bar foward so much that the chain is too tight and causeing a bind situation. The tension peg is as far back as I can get it, I even tried removing the tensioner cover to see if I could get the peg to move like 1/8" back but no. I even barrowed a cover from a neighbor's Husky and still too much tension on the bar and chain. SO? is it a bad clutch sprocket? do I drill out the tensioner hole on the bar? do I shave down the tensioner peg? I am at a loss as to why it doesn't line up right. txs for any suggestions
Answer
Michael,
I am not sure if you checked the number of drive links, It definitely sounds like that may be your problem, but first lets do a quick primer on bars and chains:
First, check the pitch of the drive sprocket, on some sprocket drums the pitch will be stamped into the metal drum (ie. 3/8 or .325), on other drums there will be just a part number (which can be cross referenced to the pitch), Many Husqvarna Chainsaws of the same Model are available in either pitch, so its important to know what the pitch is for your chainsaw. You may need to remove the drive sprocket and thoroughly clean it to see and be able to read the numbers, but its a good chore anyhow to have a clean drum, clutch, and bearing anyhow, and then don't forget to re-lubricate the bearing when putting it back on.
Next, The length of the bar and mounting of the bar, there are specific Bars for your Model 445. Obviously the bar tailstock has to properly fit the mounting bolts, and the oil hole of the bar needs to align with the oiler discharge tube of the engine. The Length is really only limited by the displacement "CC's" of the engine, and a Model 445 is 45 CC displacement, so a 16 or 18" bar length is about right, Now the chain needs to go around the drive sprocket and then around the bar, If its too tight which means you don't have enough drive links, and if its too loose you won't be able to extend the tensioner enough to tension the chain, and it means you have too many drive links (DL). Most bars will have the length, DL or drive links stenciled on the bar, as well as the pitch, and the bar gauge. Its real important that the pitch of the drive sprocket match the pitch stenciled on the bar, and the gauge is the thickness of the drive links on the chain that has to properly fit the gauge or groove of the bar. One reason pitch on a bar is important is that some bars have a sprocket nose, which is another gear with a specific number of teeth on the sprocket, so the sprocket pitch has to match the drive sprocket pitch, and the chain has to have that pitch too.
Finally the chain, there are lots of chains that will fit a Model 445, besides the various specific types there are chisel, skip, semi-skip, and the list goes on, the difference is there use and type of cutting or application, like soft wood/ hardwood, clean wood cutting Vs wood with debris in it decayed wood or dirt imbedded, also there are aggressive chains, safety chains or anti-kickback chains. OK- with all that said the one thing which is most important is that the chain matches the bar with the correct number of drive links (DL), the chain pitch, and finally the gauge (or thickness of the drive links).
I hope that all makes sense, so here is a link to chain/bar selector which may help you
/pdf/homeowner/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=CONS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
You can type in your brand "Husqvarna" select model number from list "445" and put in bar length (ie. 16"), and the recommended pitch, gauge, and drive links which should match your chainsaw is .325 pitch. .050 gauge, and 66 drive links (DL).
You can physically count the drive links on your chain, if you remove the chain from the bar, and look at the little tangs that ride in the bar groove, you should have 66 of them, (Hint) If you hold the chain so its folded into two, you can count by twos' which is easier.
PS. If your not comfortable removing the drive sprocket to check the pitch, then I would recommend taking it to a Husqvarna Repair Center and have them do it for you.
Average Rating:
100% (+1/-0)
|
Michael,
Just one other quick thought, If you find that the pitch of the drive sprocket is "3/8", and since you already have a considerable investment in .325 bars and chains, then I would recommend getting a .325 pitch drive sprocket to fit a model 445, which will be more reasonable then purchasing another bar and chain.
I hope this helps, and makes sense for you.
PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or Authorized Repair, just an Experimental Chainsaw Person.
Average Rating:
100% (+1/-0)
|
HI Karla
WOW thankyou for the reply, very helpful. I ment to include the question in my original call for help if maybe when this machine was remanufactured they mixed matched machine, bar, and chain and that could a 3/8th sprocket vs a .325 cause the lack of room to properly install and tension the bar and chain. The reason I went at bought a .325 pitch 18" chain was the 18" bar that came in the box is stamped .325 but the chain that was included didn't seem to glide in the bar slots too well but I thought maybe it was bent or tweeked. When I purchased he 16" bar and chain, it was to eliminate the possibilities that either the 18" bar was damage or he original chain was and figured I could use a 16" at times. I have looked at the sprocket but didn't see like anything that stated either measure. I will have to look for part number or disassemble as you mentioned. Before I posted the request for help, my thought was that the sprocket clutch were bad so was thinking just order a .325 since I've bought so much .325 stuff. again I appreciate the information and will look at the sprocket. My neighbor let me try my 16" and 18" configurations on his husky that is a .325 and they mounted up fine and allowed room to tension the combos and I could move the chain freely versus the bindup on mine. I'm thinking by eliminating probably items that the sprocket is the culpret or atleast the mix match of sprocket/bar/chain as it was in the box when I purchased the unit. many thanks again...
Be the first to rate this
|
mr lowe, please do not drill the tensioner alignment hole. please do not damage or modify the tensioner arbor.
with the clutch/brake cover off of the saw, place the bar over the barbolts and move it rearward until it bumps the sprocket. leave the chain off. with the cover off adjust the tensioner back and forth with a screwdriver and find the center of its travel, then retract it back roughly midway between the center and fully retracted. be very gentle and place it over the bolts, while pushing it inward, massage the bar forward slowly until you feel it catch into the adjuster/locater hole in the bar. once you feel it locate into the hole lift up the nose of the bar and finger tighten the bar nuts. not too tight, just enough to hold the bar. now adjust the tensioner while carefully watching the bar slide forward and rearward. after you feel confident this is working, then retract the bar rearward. now slip the chain over and locate it into the top bartrack and onto the sprocket. after accomplishing this, tighten the adjuster while holding upward pressure on the tip of the bar. do not over tighten the chain. tighten the bar nuts with a 1/4" ratchet so as not to apply big torque, but they are good and tight. now pull the chain thru rotation but don't cut up your fingers while doing so.
the nose of that bar should be lifted upward everytime you adjust chain tension. I assure you that this will work and you will become comfortable in the process very quickly. let me know how we do...
Average Rating:
100% (+1/-0)
|
thankyou Robert for your reply I appreciate you taking time to respond. Yes the tension system works perfect. Prior to seeking help I had mounted the bar without a chain to figure out tighten/loosen the tension clockwise counter clockwise and I for forget the moment after, gunna have to sharpie that on the case. haha.. anyhow, bar sides nice, motor starts up and runs great without a chain mounted. I do see that drilling or modifing could be dangerous, but it's one of those wits ends duct tape fixes. Once the chain is on, 1)can barely get the chain around the nose of the bar 2) the tensioner pin is like 1/8" from fitting in the alignment hole in the bar. pushing down on the case make the pin go in the hole but them the chain has no slack, not even enough to pull it away from the bar and is bound up to were you can't rotate the chain at all. the two times I got the machine to start with the chain this tight and over oiled the chain and bar it did spin but like the area under the case got soo hot the bar oil was smoking. hopeing I didn't damage the engine but I was trying anything with the thought this this is junk anyway since it was not working. txs again. hopeing that it is the sprocket / bar / chain mismatch thing and go from there.
Be the first to rate this
|
the purpose of leaving the chain off is to make you familiar with the bar being captured by the tensioner peg. this will prove that it will function properly.
do this a few times and adjust the bar only back and forward until you feel confident that the peg is aligning into the bar properly. the next step is to bring on the chain and allow yourself to feel it that way. the peg must be in the bar hole for the saw to function.
I repair/re-build saws professionally, and I have never seen a tensioner that can't engage when installed properly. I have encountered users that have not familiarized themselves with the correct process. so hopefully, this will help...
Be the first to rate this
|
oh great! glad to hear that. yes, as usual, karla gets it right. the chain, bar, and sprocket must be simpatico. the bar and chain must match up with the gauges being alike. the sprockets must match up to the pitch of chain being rotated. so if you drive a .325 pitch, and a .050 gauge chain, then you must have a bar that is compatible with the .050 gauge, and the sprocket must accept the .325 pitch. there are many advantages to having a 3/8" or .375 pitch chain. not the least of which is the big availability of full chisel square ground skiptooth production chain. it can be dangerous if not fully respected, but watching the roostertail of woodchips flying out 10' away from the cutting, makes my paul bunyon heart fill with gladness. you need a hot saw to sling that mess across the forest.
oops! did I get some wood chips in your beer? sorry...
Be the first to rate this
|
Michael,
Yup - The wrong size (pitch) drive sprocket, and the chain will not fit correctly.
I hope this helps, and Oh If you are going to replace the drive sprocket, I highly recommend the "Oregon Powermate" rim and sprocket, there are alot of advantages to this system, and it will make the chain run easily on the bar. Here is a link, if you are Not familiar with "Powermate":/pdf/pro/products/sprockets/pro_main_sprockets.htm
Please keep me informed with your results, and what you discover.
Be the first to rate this
|
Karla
You were 100% correct in your deductive reasoning. My purchased remanufactured unit was shipped with a 3/8th" drive sprocket with a .325 pitch bar and chain. UGH Don't they check the fit with they finish testing the motors for function? guess that was my headache for getting a remanfactured chainsaw, but totally happy it now runs and cuts perfect and when off, the chain freely moved versus binding up from the mismatch in pitch.
thankyou for the help and the suggest of the rim & sprocket. I did go that option cause it seemed to make sence that the rim would probably grab the cogs of the chain better then the sprocket teeth do. I thought I had ordered a Oregon brand but guess I purchased a Foresture brand. seemed good quality and came with a new needle bearing as I was thinking I burned the one out with the way the mismatched pitch caused so much tention and running it or attempting to run it that way.
Be the first to rate this
|
Michael,
Thanks for the update, and I'm glad that I could help. Also, I have had good luck with "forest " brand, so No problem there with the Rim and Sprocket. I also always pick up a few extra rims when I see them on sale, and after you have completely worn through a chain, and there are no more sharpenings left, and your ready to put on a new chain, then check the rim and see if its really worn, and replace it with the new chain. I usually pay around $4. - 5.00 on sale for a rim, but they will last a long time. Oh, also to really maintain your chainsaw, keep the drive sprocket and clutch clean, lubricate the bearing periodically inside the drive sprocket, and then always, always check your chain tension by pulling with a gloved hand on the chain and make sure it pulls smoothly and freely. If you get any hiccups or feels tight then there is something wrong, and you must stop and fix it. Don't use a chainsaw if the chain does not pull properly around the bar.
Anyhow, If you run into any future problems, just check this site out for help!
Karla
Be the first to rate this
|