it is an alloy that can be tigged but if you broke off a small piece of fin, it will not affect the heat dissipation enough to make any difference. so it really isn't worth the effort. when I need to re-weld a jug or magnesium castings, I pre-heat the parts in a 450* oven for at least 1/2 an hour. if you attempt it with a mig then argon will not work. you must use the appropriate shielding gas.
I lost my wifi just now. if you use helium it must be UHP helium. a 50/50 mix of UHP helium and argon along with the oven pre-heating will allow you to puddle aluminum smoothly with great penetration. just remember that balloon helium is not going to burn hot, it must be ultra high purity. if you use helium only then be very careful with the amperage selection because you can do more damage than what you are trying to repair. if you have no welding skill then it would be cheaper to replace the top-end. the Chinese topkits work very well on that saw and will perform nicely. you can re-do that saw for $70-$80.00
my question is how did you break off a cooling fin?
Thanks for the information. I will just run it as is until the head needs replacement. I had looked for an aftermarket head for that saw, but could only find the OEM for about $220.
I broke it trying to multitask by attaching the saw in the case to the top of my harrow when I was driving my tractor to cut up a tree and then plow firebreaks. It came off when I decided to break up a dirt pile with my loader on the way and the harrow ran over it a few times as I was going back and forth. Yes, I forgot it was on there until I looked back as I was leaving the pile. Saw seems salvageable after replacing handle, hand guard, starter assembly and a couple of other parts. To make matters worse, this was a new saw.
I also need to try and fix a narrow piece of the crankcase frame that broke just above the flywheel. Would you know what material that is? It looks like cast aluminum and I was thinking of trying to krazy glue it after cleaning it with aluminum jelly.
it is magnesium. this is a form of alloy also, but it has a molecular structure that is stronger yet lighter than pure aluminum. if the crank seals survived so that the crank still holds vaccum, then the saw will run normally. if you try to tig material back into the crank housing half, then the entire saw must be disassembled because of the need to pre-heat the casting. that means the seals would need to be replaced for re-assembly. if the saw is still cutting, then leave that alone as well. gluing that piece is a very bad idea because it will fall off into the flywheel and really tear *** up. IE: igniter, wiring, intake boot, fuel lines, impulse hose, and on and on.
I have a new 576 XPG and I hate it that this has happened because it is a terrific saw, weight to power ratio is truly impressive. the best thing to do for that saw is to buy the tall top cover and oversized felt air filter with the extension riser that mounts the big air filter. then buy a set of 5 point oversized felling dogs from pro-safety, they are sold at baileyson-line .com
the addition of the big filter and the oversized dogs will make you forget about the blunder altogether. because everyone that sees that bad Oscar will want one just like it. it will be the most intimidating, evil, attractive saw in town. everyone of my customers wants mine, or one just like it...
Answer
it is an alloy that can be tigged but if you broke off a small piece of fin, it will not affect the heat dissipation enough to make any difference. so it really isn't worth the effort. when I need to re-weld a jug or magnesium castings, I pre-heat the parts in a 450* oven for at least 1/2 an hour. if you attempt it with a mig then argon will not work. you must use the appropriate shielding gas.
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I lost my wifi just now. if you use helium it must be UHP helium. a 50/50 mix of UHP helium and argon along with the oven pre-heating will allow you to puddle aluminum smoothly with great penetration. just remember that balloon helium is not going to burn hot, it must be ultra high purity. if you use helium only then be very careful with the amperage selection because you can do more damage than what you are trying to repair. if you have no welding skill then it would be cheaper to replace the top-end. the Chinese topkits work very well on that saw and will perform nicely. you can re-do that saw for $70-$80.00
my question is how did you break off a cooling fin?
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Thanks for the information. I will just run it as is until the head needs replacement. I had looked for an aftermarket head for that saw, but could only find the OEM for about $220.
I broke it trying to multitask by attaching the saw in the case to the top of my harrow when I was driving my tractor to cut up a tree and then plow firebreaks. It came off when I decided to break up a dirt pile with my loader on the way and the harrow ran over it a few times as I was going back and forth. Yes, I forgot it was on there until I looked back as I was leaving the pile. Saw seems salvageable after replacing handle, hand guard, starter assembly and a couple of other parts. To make matters worse, this was a new saw.
I also need to try and fix a narrow piece of the crankcase frame that broke just above the flywheel. Would you know what material that is? It looks like cast aluminum and I was thinking of trying to krazy glue it after cleaning it with aluminum jelly.
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|
it is magnesium. this is a form of alloy also, but it has a molecular structure that is stronger yet lighter than pure aluminum. if the crank seals survived so that the crank still holds vaccum, then the saw will run normally. if you try to tig material back into the crank housing half, then the entire saw must be disassembled because of the need to pre-heat the casting. that means the seals would need to be replaced for re-assembly. if the saw is still cutting, then leave that alone as well. gluing that piece is a very bad idea because it will fall off into the flywheel and really tear *** up. IE: igniter, wiring, intake boot, fuel lines, impulse hose, and on and on.
I have a new 576 XPG and I hate it that this has happened because it is a terrific saw, weight to power ratio is truly impressive. the best thing to do for that saw is to buy the tall top cover and oversized felt air filter with the extension riser that mounts the big air filter. then buy a set of 5 point oversized felling dogs from pro-safety, they are sold at baileyson-line .com
the addition of the big filter and the oversized dogs will make you forget about the blunder altogether. because everyone that sees that bad Oscar will want one just like it. it will be the most intimidating, evil, attractive saw in town. everyone of my customers wants mine, or one just like it...
Be the first to rate this
|
I will leave it alone as you suggest. Thanks for your help.
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mr. Collins you are welcome sir. please take my advice about the asthetic upgrades. you will be glad you did...
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