General Product Question
I just purchased a model 545-20 chainsaw. The saw had been...
General Product Question posted March 7, 2015 by Daniel Haehn
69 Views, 5 Comments
Question:
I just purchased a model 545-20 chainsaw. The saw had been on display so it was already unpackaged when I purchased it. My question is this, does this model saw come with a bar cover as part of the standard equipment? I read the manual and noticed in the "What is What?" section that there is a bar cover; I'm just trying to figure out what I'm supposed to have and what I need to purchase. Thanks.
Answer
Daniel,
Yes, you should have a bar cover, and also a plastic bag with owners manual, which also includes a scrench or ( combination spark plug tool), and two allen keys( which fit all the screws of the chainsaw), and a small tube of grease.
Also obviously, a 20" bar and chain too!
Its a great saw, I have had mine for a year now, and I love the Autotune. Just another tip, be careful not to flood the engine, It should start in one to two pulls, If it doesn't start then stop pulling and find out what is wrong. If you can't find anything wrong, and you have re-read the starting directions, then try depressing and holding the trigger wide open or wide open throttle (WOT) and start it that way, just be ready to release the trigger when it starts, and be careful with the chain starting to rotate, unless you have the brake on.
I hope this helps, and if you need any Info on the model 545, just give me a shout.
Karla
PS. I am not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair center, just an experimental chainsaw person.
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Thank you Karla. I will go back to my dealer to ask for the bar cover. I did receive a Zip-lock bag with the owner's manual, the scrench, an allen wrench, and a combination T-handle socket/allen wrench, a small grease gun (push type) and a small tube of grease.
I do have another question for you Karla. I own four other 2-cycle engine implements...4 chainsaws, and a weedeater...I use a 1:32 fuel mix for these. Two of the chainsaws are from the late 1970's -early 1980's, the weedeater from the mid-1980's. I had always been told that a little richer was better, but I imagine with the new air quality standards that these newer 2-cycles are designed for a leaner blend of fuel. So, I am guessing that this is too rich for the 545, correct?
Thanks,
Daniel
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Daniel.
I have lots, and lots of different pieces of equipment both 2 cycle stuff, and 4 cycle stuff, like I own 15 different chainsaws which all run and operate like new after, I finished rebuilding them. Anyhow, back to your question, and its a great question:
First, always follow the original manufacturers directions for mixing ratio's, and manufacture of recommended oils.
Yes, they have changed the polution standards, and keeping your engines tuned properly is part of that answer, but also especially since the 1970's compared to today, they have changed the oils, from real (organic - the good old stuff) oil to the new synthetic oils
. Some of the new synthetic oils say you can use their product on any ratio, so its a mix for (50:1, 40:1, 32:1, 16:1, etc), and its the same mix, or one small container to a gallon of fuel for all these different ratio's. The reason is the synthetic oil acts differently inside the engine, then the good old stuff (plain oil).
Anyhow, on some of my old antique engines, I still use the good old stuff when I run the engine, and yes it makes smoke but I don't run them everyday, just once and a great while.
Oh another factor is the internals of the engines have changed too, from cast steel cylinders to very lite aluminum cylinders with plated Moly or alloy thin coatings of different types. The good old stuff was a lubricant on the steel cast cylinders, today the lubricant is actually more of a coolant fluid and lubricant, and Yes the engines of today get as hot or even hotter (2000-3000 Farenheit degrees to the internals of the engine) then the engines of yester years, and one of the reasons are the speeds of the chainsaw engines are so much faster today. Yester year chainsaw engines ran around 8000 - 9000 rpms, and todays engines are running in excess to 13,000 Rpms on a chainsaw.
So, I'm sure I missed something between older engines and newer engines, but the simple rule is always follow the recommended Manufacturers sugestions, and keep your engine tuned up properly, also with chainsaws don't neglect the output of the engine, which is lubricating the drive sprocket, lubricating the bar and chain, lubricating the nose sprocket of the bar, and keeping the moving parts clean and working properly, As well as keeping the chain very sharp and sharpened correctly each time it is used. (Note: The output of the engine is probably the most neglected, but of paramount importance to the engines performance).
I am sure volumes could be written on this subject, but I will quit here.
I hope this helps, and it really is a great question.
Karla
PS. I enjoy doing the forensic diagnostics and analysis of a failed engine, and I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair center, just an experimental chainsaw person.
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Daniel,
I forgot one very important fact about newer engines, compared to older engines, and that is horsepower or just power (KW) is that the engines have more power for there size and this is due to the tighter clearances and tolerances. This is also why it is so important to get the engine properly tuned for the correct RPMs, because by adjusting the carburetor incorrectly you can far exceed the Manufacturers specifications, so it has to be tuned properly, and I'm Not trying to skirt your question whether it should be adjusted "Rich" or "Lean", and I do understand your question.
I believe or in my opinion, Engines are often mis-diagnosed as having a seized piston because according to the mechanics words, " someone ran straight fuel in the engine", the customer is then told this., But I believe the tolerances are so tight they are not forgiving, and it appears to the mechanic that the incorrect mixture is the fault or no mixture at all. The smallest amount of contaminant in the air, fuel, or in the exhaust as carbon deposits, will start to score the cylinder there is almost no margin for contaminants. Older engines had lots of clearance but not the horsepower or speed, so I guess its kind of a trade off.
Therfor, its very important to keep the engine properly tuned to the manufacturers' specifications, everything clean, which when working with a chainsaw that is making dust and chips is almost an oxy-moron. Clean air filter, clean fuel filter, clean engine cylinder fins (to keep engine cooler), check for exhaust carbon deposits, clean and the best, and freshest fuel you can get,
Oh, and don't forget the correct manufacturers oil to fuel mixture ratio, and Oh carburetor settings, "I am not going to touch that subject", Lol.
Ok - Now, I will need to write a book. Lol. Also have fun with your new chainsaw, and keep it well maintained,
Karla
PS. I enjoy doing the forensic diagnostics and analysis of a failed engine, and I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair center, just an experimental chainsaw person.
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Thanks Karla...I wrote this reply before but I evidently took too long to complete it. Anyway, I did get the bar cover today.
I don't use my saws that often but now I have a lot of cutting to do since the ugly ash borer has made it presence known. I purchased this saw because my largest and oldest saw does not have a chain brake. I wanted something with all of the safety features. I also bought chaps and a forest helmet.
I do need to go over my other saws and get them tuned again. The small ones will be handy cutting up the limbs for firewood.
It is nice to know that there are people still willing to repair things that are still useful. I usually get the reply of, "why don't you get rid of that old thing?"... oh well.
I am putting dibs in for a copy of your new book once you get it compiled=:)
Thanks again for all of your help, advice and guidance.
Take care,
Daniel
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