Chainsaws

Ron,

Ok - It sounds like your very close to having it running, so everything that you did is good news.

I use the Acroynm "FACTS" when troubleshooting engines,( Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing, Spark), its a good one to remember, based  on your symptoms we can eliminate "Spark", since the engine does start but I am questioning why so many pull starts before it starts usually one or two pulls and should hear it hiccup or burp or try to fire and then take it off of choke.

Next timing, we can eliminate that unless you took the engine apart and rebuilt the engine including the flywheel and coil, and even then on most 2 stroke small engines they have a fixed key and keyways, and it would be difficult to upset the timing but not impossible, some of the new electronic ignition coils have the timing built into the coils.

Next compression, Its a brand new (relatively new) engine, I suspect when your pulling it has a good pull, and feels like there is compression (some resistance to the pulling) If your not sure If it has enough compression, you can  remove the spark plug, and give it a couple pulls, and it should pull very easily and then with the spark plug back in you should feel compression. Do you have good engine compression ? I also didn't check the IPL drawings for a model 240, but do you have a de-compression valve in the top of the cylinder ?, usually on larger chainsaws (Its a little black button that relieves engine compression to make it easy to start) If you have one of those please let me know then can be a source of problems. 

Next Air. If it were a used chainsaw, I would check the air filter for sawdust, but I doubt you have any sawdust there yet, but I would still follow your operating instructions, remove the air filter and make sure someone didn't leave a piece of packing material inside and between the filter and air intake, or left it wrapped in cellophane or something silly. . I have seen packing materials left inside of chainsaws, especially If they came straight from the factory and didn't go thru a store, who usually unpacks it.Most of the time the packing materials are found between the clutch and bar chain bolts and looks like styrafoam material, Anyhow make sure all packing materials were removed, your owners manual may have some info on that, but definitely check that nothing is blocking getting air into the engine.

Finally, and thats actually where I was going to start first is "Fuel", I suspected that originally when you wrote your first message. But I don't do "FACTS" in any specific Order, It just depends on the symptoms, But I did suspect the fuel, and still do after your reply to my message. If the engine sat for a couple years, from 2012 to 2014 before you got it there is a good possibility that the diaphrams and gaskets which are inside the carburetor dried out, this then would cause air leak around the carburetors fuel metering diaphram, and also around the fuel pump diaphram. It would be kind of like if you had rebuilt the carburetor, and since its new the gaskets would be dry, this is usually a symptom for anyone who has re-built a carburetor is to soak it or spray a little WD-40 on the gaskets and diaphrams to get a good carburetor seal. But since you now have some fuel in the engine that is "Good" because the gaskets are no longer dry. When you remove the air filter. I would look around  the carburetor and see if you see any liquid gas leaking in the carb compartment, it should be completely dry, take a piece of paper towel, and where you can reach the plastic just double check there are no leaks or drip you will see it on the paper towel If there are, and it amy have stopped leaking if the gaskets are now soaked with gasoline. OK - Primer bulb, you can press the primer bulb many times, you will not flood the engine or cause any problem by doing this. All the primer bulb does is pump fuel from the tank (circulates fuel) and into the carburetor, then thru the inside of the fuel pumps diaphram inside the carburetor, and returns the fuel back to the tank. However the importance of this is getting fuel inside the carburetors fuel pump, hence priming the pump. The prime bulb should hold fuel inside the primer bulb for a long time ( like over several days), there is a very small rubber check valve inside the primer bulb, So my question for you, Is after pressing the primer bulb does your prime bulb stay full of fuel ? or does it look like it drains back out after a few presses ? Again you press the primer bulb multiple times to check this, so don't worry about pressing it to many times. If the primer bulb is not holding fuel, then you need a new one they are usually very reasonable ($5.-8.00) at a small engine shop, maybe some of the big box stores too, Just make sure to get one exactly the same size and type that you have, there are different ones, and they are easy to replace too. I will be glad to help you with that too, if you find this probem.

Also when priming if you look inside the carb compartment with the air cleaner is removed, and press the prime bulb you should see fuel moving thru the fuel lines, unless you have those solid black lines and not the clear yellow lines. This means your fuel filter is probably good if your able to move fuel easily thru the primer bulb, however if the primer bulb seems like it gets stuck, another words, you press it in but it doesn't pop out right away, then you may have a blockage in the fuel lines and or fuel filter. So every time you press the primer bulb, does it hold fuel and come right back out ? If not you may want to check or replace your fuel filter, again I can help you with that also.

Lastly. If the answer so far to all my questions is No, No, No  then take a small instrument screw driver, and adjust the "L" Carburetor adjustment, only 1/4 turn counter clockwise. DO NOT ADJUST the "H" adjustment. You probably have limiters (little plastic colored caps, orange or white or black) which will not allow you to turn the "L" adjustment very far, so do not force turning the "L" adjustment counter clockwise. Then try starting the saw following the operating manual directions, and let me know what happens ?

I hope this helps, and please get back to me. We are not finished yet!

Karla

Ron.

Glad to hear that the Service Shop treated you good, and got your chainsaw running for you. The Model 240 is a good trim saw and some lite cutting, great for limbing once the tree is down, but you may want to consider having a second chainsaw if your doing some firewood cutting, probably in the range of a 55 - 72  cc engine. I have several Husqvarna chainsaws and love them all.

Anyhow, keep the chain sharp, keep the chainsaw clean after each use, keep it maintained, oiled, and the proper fuel mixture, and I am sure the Model 240 will run for a long time. Oh also use it, and run it once and a while, and don't let stale old fuel accumulate or stay in the saw for a long time, always use a fresh mixture.

Thanks for the feedback, and again glad its running.

Karla