Service & Maintenance Question
I own a YTH 2348 mower (2-3yrs old). It will start...
Service & Maintenance Question posted June 18, 2015 by Brian Murphy
179 Views, 13 Comments
Question:
I own a YTH 2348 mower (2-3yrs old). It will start if I prime the carb but stops running after that. I've removed the carb and cleaned most of it. I don't have a torx socket so I didn't take the cylinder feed side apart but clearly that side is getting fuel from the prime. The needle is NOT damaged but does have a slight indent around it. But if it was leaking wouldn't I get more gas rather than not enough to start it? The solenoid does work, the jets are clear., the vacuum fuel pump does work. The tall brass rods with holes look clear. I do see some slight buildup in the choke area of the carb body.
If I blow into the gas inlet tube air goes through but is somewhat restricted. 1. Is that normal?
2. What else needs to be cleaned or what am I missing?
Thank you,
Brian
If I blow into the gas inlet tube air goes through but is somewhat restricted. 1. Is that normal?
2. What else needs to be cleaned or what am I missing?
Thank you,
Brian
Answer
What are numbers on the engine? If its a Briggs these should be on the no 2 cylinder valve cover. If looking from the from the front that will on your right side.
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It's on the LEFT side from the front of the mower: Model 445577 Type 2187 G1 and unless I read it wrong the carb # from B&S is 791230
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I'm assuming, perhaps incorrectly that it's a manual choke since I have to push the power lever all the way forward to start the mower.
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Yes that one style of choking; although, most time on this Nikki Carburetor you have a remote choke pull assembly.
I looked up the carburetor PN you posted and it should be the one below. If so then the fuel bowl which should be the cast aluminum version can be plugged where the solenoid screws in not allowing fuel to flow into the carburetor jetting system.. The bowl is held on by two large screws which somethings are struck and may take some gentle pervasion to loosen.
As for removing the carburetor for cleaning you will need to unbolt the intake manifold as there 4 nuts on the backside that needs removing to separate carburetor from the filter adapter and intake manifolds. Once the nuts are removed and filter adapter is separated, you will need a E5 external torx socket to remove the bolt that holds the carburetor to the intake.
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OK, I replaced the carb because I figured there must be some gunk in there that I can't see but it still does not start.
Same thing. If I prime it and run it on slow it will run for 4-6 seconds.
I'm getting fuel out of the fuel pump but I'm not sure if it's enough or has enough pressure.
The only other thing I noticed is that the plastic manifold going from the carb to the cylinders has a slight warp in the middle. I can see light in the center but NOT where the outlet to the manifold from the carbs is and it does NOT leak gas when I pour some into the carb air intake to prime it.
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Can post image this warp that you see light? Need to see what you referring to.
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Assuming the bowl has gas in it should I be able to blow into the gas line leading to the carb, with the key on so the solenoid kicks in, and see gas coming out into the carb air intake that feeds the manifold?
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If the bowl full fuel no you should be able to do this. The float valve would have any further fuel shut off until level drops.
It like the float operated water tank on your bathroom fixture used for flushing liquid and solid waste.
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The pic isn't very clear but when the carb is off and I hold it up to the light I can see the warp in the center of the two ports below the gas inlet between the gasket material and the plastic manifold. I don't see any light near the left or right port and it does NOT leak gas.
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Brian if the area your referring to is in the area indicated in the following image and the carburetor then you have found your problem. That whole area must be sealed in order for the carburetor to provide fuel via the engine normal vacuum.
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Yes Eugene that is EXACTLY what I'm talking about. I had a feeling that was the case since I replaced the carb and there's not much else. I guess the heat over time warped the manifold. Thanks so much for the help.
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That manifold has a slightly raised ring around each inlet. I'm wondering if I can just sand the entire surface smooth and get it to work while I order the new one. My lawn is getting to look like a jungle. LOL
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