Chainsaws

Michael, 

There are actually a number of reasons that this could be ocuring:

One of the problems usually starts with a chain being incorrectly sharpened, If a chain is hand sharpened, and understanding the components of a chain, an individual might change the length of each tooth on only one side by oversharpening that side (ie. right cutter side). When we hand sharpen, we have a tendency to be stronger on one side, filing away at say the right cutters more, making all the right cutters shorter in length than the left cutters, and then the chain will lean and cut to one side, with alot of use in this condition the bar will then wear to one side,

I hope that makes sense. The fix for this condition is checking the length of the left and right cutters, and taking the chain to a professional shop, who then should make all of the teeth, both right and left cutters the same length with a machine, but of course the bar would also need to be ground  even, so that the rails of the bar are even too, or buy a new bar. Again, this is one possibility, However when ever I work on a complaint with a bar and chain, I always do the following procedure:

1. Starting with the drive sprocket, check the condition of the drive sprocket for wear, and if worn I replace it, and I also replace the drive sprocket bearing which keeps the drive sprocket true to the plane of the crankshaft and bar mounting,  I also check the drive sprocket pitch, I have seen too many times a mis-match of the drive sprocket pitch,  to the bar and chain pitch. Remember all three pitches of drive sprocket, bar, and chain, must match. You cannot have a ,325 pitch drive sprocket with a 3/8 pitch bar and chain. I have seen this problem alot.

2. When  checking the bar, I always check the condition of the bar first and clean it, making sure there is no pinches in the bar groove, I check the condition of the bar groove and make sure its thoroughly clean, and that the rails are not overly worn,  I use a flat surface to make sure the bar is not bent, and then check the bar rails by standing the bar up on edge on a flat surface as well. Checking both the top rails and bottoms rails, If the bar falls over onto the flat surface or leans to one side than I know the rail is worn un-evenly, and needs repair. I also check the condition of the nose sprocket making sure its not too worn down, and that it is clean and spins freely checking the bearing also, and then thoroughly lubricating the nose sprocket. Using an air compressor really helps in getting everything clean, just be careful with pointing the nozzle of the airgun.

3. When sharpening a chain, I do some hand sharpening if I'm out in the field with a chainsaw and just want to touch it up a little, but I also usually have multiple chains with me, and rather than doing alot of sharpening  in the field, its easier for me change chains,  to re-sharpen back in the shop. I also periodically machine sharpen a chain to make sure the teeth are all even, and also verify I have the correct angles. Its very important that a chain is sharpened with the correct angles or you will not be making nice big wood chips but just sawdust. I always check the angles of the cutters with a gauge, and check the depth of the rakers with a gauge also.

Anyhow, when I'm all done checking and performing the steps outlined above, I have never had a problem, and always fixed the problem found. You must be real thorough, and check everything, also a thorough cleaning is imperative, of drive sprocket, bar, and chain. I use a solution of 50% water & 50 % household ammonia in a bucket, and wear rubber, a 30 minute soak of the bar and chain, and all dirt, grime, wood burn, tree sap comes off in the solution with maybe a little bit of brushing on really dirty chains. The ammonia will not destroy the bar decal or lettering, but will make the bar and chain look like new. I also then use the air compressor to dry and blow off the water and solution, use eye protection too. The bar and chain are then thoroughly lubricated before putting it back on the chainsaw, also checking that each link of the chain moves freely, and that there is no binding between individual chain links. 

Finally, Installing the chain and bar onto a chainsaw, and checking the chain for the proper tension, Not too tight, or you will heat up the bar and chain, and prematurely stretch and wear both the bar and chain out, and Also Not too loose that the chain will come off of the bar, The tension has to be just right, After the chain is tensioned correctly, and with a gloved hand pull on the chain several times to insure the chain has traveled completely around the bar, check for any jumping of chain, make sure the chain pulls freely, and easily, and that there are no problems felt, If you get any hick-ups or jumps then remove the bar and chain from the chainsaw, and check it again.

I know, It sounds like a long procedure but after you have done this a few times, you will be able to do this in less than 10 minutes which is really no time at all, and well worth it when you want to go cut wood.

I hope this detailed procedure helps you find and locate your problem

Karla

PS. I am Not a Husqvarna Representative or a Repair Service, Just an experimental chainsaw person