Comments

  • 1-7 of 7
  • Gary Wheeler

    Thanks Karla,

    I'll keep working on it then.  When I examine the piston closely in good light, I cannot see the split in the ring you saw in the picture.  I saw it in the picture also and assumed it was just a shadow in a bad photograph, but I'll try the screw driver procedure you mentioned.  I have found a source I can order the LMT cleaner form and I'll probably just do that and try to get this thing done.  I've got four large cherry trees laying in my yard that I have to get up before the weather warms up and I have to start working on mowers instead of my own chainsaw. :)

    Thanks again.

  • Gary Wheeler

    By the way, the picture gives the appearance of a line that might be thought to be the gap adjacent to the "hole", however, that line is just in the picture and is not on the actual part.

    thanks

     

  • Gary Wheeler

    Karla and others,

    I could not obtain LMT cleaner locally so on the advice of an aviation mechanic I bumped into, I soaked the piston in denatured alcohol.  It seems to have softened the carbon deposits sufficiently and I should be able to get it clean.  However, I have been unable to get the piston ring to budge.  I tried moving it both side to side (around the piston in the groove) and up and down between the ring lands of the groove without the slightest movement.  I've also examined it very closely several times and cannot see any indication of a gap at all.  The closest thing I've found is a semi-circle notch in both the ring and groove that are aligned on one side of the piston.  There seems to be some kind of "pin" or something in the hole created by the alignment and I can get the tip of a dental pick all around the "pin".  I've also used the dental pick to remove the carbon from the between the ring and the top land in the groove and still cannot get the ring to slide up to the land at all.  It almost seems as if the ring is some how machined into the groove and is not removable.  Have any of you seen anything like this?  My saw was manufactured in 2011, is this some kind of new design of the piston and ring?  I've attached a picture of the piston that shows the "hole" and "pin" I've described.  Any hints on getting the ring removed and replaced?  If I can't get the ring out, I guess I'll just replace the piston and ring.  Any hints?

    Thanks Gary Wheeler

  • Gary Wheeler

    Cool.  Thanks again.

  • Gary Wheeler

    Thanks Karla,

    All great information and will be very helpful in getting my saw running again.  Thanks

  • Gary Wheeler

    Karla,

    I'm new at this forum and don't know how it works.  Please see my additional questions posted below.  thanks

     

  • Gary Wheeler

    Wow!  Thanks a bunch Karla.  This is a great help.  A few more quick questions if I could, 1) what do I torque the Crankcase bolts to? 2)where do I find the piston ring gap spec? and 3) I haven't examined the crankshaft closely, but on a quick glance it did appear to be a two piece shaft that comes apart at the crank pin journal. However, it seemed the crankshaft bearings were going to be in the way and they did not slide off easily.  I have not taken the piston rod off the crankshaft yet and to examine the bearing, shaft and journal closely I'll need to do that.  Are the crankshaft bearings pressed on?  If so, any hints to removing them without damaging them?  also, is there a spec on torque for the crank pin journal when I re-assemble it?

    thanks again.