Fortunantly, my 460 has never had problems starting, maintaining idle. It may be different than yours in that is uses a compression valve to help start the saw. After the compression valve pops open, it is pushed back in, choke closecd and re-primed. It usually starts with the next pull.
I replaced a good coil (the spring cap to the spark plug had detached) with a generic coil. I did not set the gap causing it to run rough on my Husky blower and then burn out. While it ran, it would not start hot. I replaced the spring cap to the original coil by threading the wire and re-seating it. The only other thing I did was replace the fuel line.
All my tools are running great.
I was just suggesting this based on my experience and continued motivation to be a DIY.
Don't need to take to tech to set the coil. Simply use a card stock (business card) to set gap.
May be the coil (ignition module) is overheating caused by an incorrect gap or failing module.
My 460 leaks also. Use the canvas or box case for storage.
Just give the guard a good yank, it comes right off.
Somebody took out the connecting rods in your gearbox.
Check your gas. It may be old.
This has ball bearings and sealing rings on both sides of the crankshaft.
You're right on target.
Hello Mark,
Forget these so called experts who answer ignorantly then give themselves checks for giving the best answer. If you go through this forum, the only answer these morons know is "you will need to get your saw to an authorized dealer". Forget getting any technical support here.
This is what I suggest: When starting cold, make sure the compression valve is pushed in and the choke on. Prime the bulb a few times. Give it a couple of pulls until the saw seems like it wants to start and the compression valve opens. Then push the compression valve back in, prime the bulb again, pull the choke out, and be sure to push it back in, then give it a pull or two, and it should start.
After my fuel line was replaced under warrenty, hence forth, each time I use the blower I empty the gas tank and run the blower with the remaining fuel in the fuel line. Works fine; however, the fuel line should not be difficult to replace. There is a kit that comes with the bulb, fuel line, gas filter. Get the on-line repair manual for a few bucks should guide you through it. The carbureator should not have to be replaced.
Ok, I posted here about my problem. It was the fuel line. Apparently these fuel lines don't stand up to ethanol.
Check the fuel line. Mine went bad while under warrenty. Apparently, the dealer said there were 4 other Husqvarna blowers with the same problem.
Having the same problem. I made sure the gas was around 90 oct. and premium 4 cy. oil. It ran great for a few months, then ran, was doing fine and then starting bogging. This happened a few times, cut off, now won't start. Cleaned air filter, replaced spark plug, now gas, etc. Won't start. Surfing turned up some complaints about this problem posted under reviews. But now Hasqvarna has taken down the reviews, so it's hiding these performance issues. No where in the manual does it say 10% ethanol can be used, that's all you can buy anyway in the USA anymore.
So my question is what is causing this problem. Is it the carburetor needing adjustment, is it a fuel line issue? You came here for these answers and you are told to take it to an authorized service center?????????? It's not hard to service the blower if you have the guidance to do so.