Comments

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  • Peter Lazar

    I fixed it!  the drive cable pulls up on an arm on the differential case, which makes a drive pulley on the top (in operating position) pull back.  If anything interferes with the drive differential rotating on the shaft until the drive pulley tightens on the drive belt, you get slippage.  I followed the owners manual procedure as if to change the belt in order to go in for a look see.  (I am an engineer, can't help trying to fix things.)  When I finally got the rear axle and drive belt covers off, I found an extraneous spring, hanging on the differential case.  Could not find anything onto which it could have hooked on the other end, and with all the cowlings off, the handle pulled the pulley as tight on the belt as one could desire, so I removed the extraneous spring, reassembled, and after cleaning up the oil spill, the drive worked like a charm.  Either the cowlings had been misinstalled, or the spring found in the assembly was wedging between the rotating differential and the coverings, preventing full engagement.

    two other notes: 

    1. Manual says to tip the deck on the side so the carb and air filter is down to work underneath.  If you do that, crank oil pours out the engine intake completely filling the air filter and running on the concrete or ground.  I suggest considering draining the oil or at least removing the air filter.  Alternatively, it is designed to be tipped towards the oil spout to pour out the oil.  don't know if the filler cap for the oil will hold but I would think it should be tipped that way (close the side discharge).  I had to wash the air filter with detergent and water for some time to get it clean.
    2. The plastic covering over the rear axle and differential could not be removed until the belt cover was removed.  Two screws on the top rear of the deck and one big screw on the underside.  Their were FOUR screws holding the rear axle cover, not the two shown in the manual.  the heads for two of them are hard to access between the rear wheels and the deck.  I could get them out but can not seem to get them back in.  These two were NOT shown in the manual, and the mower seems to work fine without them, but I am going to have to get a mini socket set (low head space) in order to get them back in.
  • Peter Lazar

    This adjustment was run all the way into the plastic housing on mine, definitely slack, which would be one minor shipment QC problem.  For those who don't realise it, there should be a little bit of smooth roughly 1/4" round stock showing between the nut and the plastic housing.  With your right hand thumb pointing in the direction of the cable, away from the control housing, your fingers point the way to turn so that the shiny adjustment nut (not the plastic covered part of the cable) moves out of the housing, tightening up the control cable; however, after making the adjustment even to the point the levers could not even be moved a quarter inch, I still had nothing for torque transmission.  The lever engages and disengages the wheels, if you lift the rear wheels off the ground slightly, but, the belt is slipping or the differential is slipping none the less.  I have read the belt replacement procedure and am about to take a look under the shields.  Cover Me, I am GOING IN!