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  • J Moore

    Kris,

    I tried your suggestion with no luck.  Heck, it doesn't even tell you in the manual (at least mine doesn't), which way to turn that "turnbuckle"!  So what do you think the odds are that most people will think that clockwise is tightening it and actually makes it worse?

  • J Moore

    Cindy,

    Mine was in the shop for 2 weeks and had to borrow my neighbors low end Lawn Boy mower that she got on sale for less than 200.00.  After using hers, I asked her if she wanted to trade but she turned me down.  :-(  The repair was 50.00 so at least it wasn't something ridiculous.

    As for using the washer valve, your not missing out on much.  It just makes a bigger mess under there because all the clippings are lodged in numerous places under there where the water can't clean.  I am wondering if it too is clogged up with grass.

    And trust me, even though I can pull my mower backwards, it doesn't cut any better in that direction!  ;-)

  • J Moore

    Followup:

    I have now had the opportunity to utilize my mower a few more times since it's trip to the repair shop to replace the drive belt.  I have also purchased an aftermarket generic mulching blade to replace the worn factory one.  So what if it violates my warranty, it isn't worth the paper it is printed on anyway.

    When I first got the mower, if you didn't release the drive handles at least a few seconds before trying to back up or turn, the drive wheels would lock in place and you had to manually lift the rear of the mower, drag it back about a foot, and push it forward again to get them to release.  After the replacement of the belt by the local dealer, the drive wheels no longer lock up at all.  I can go right up to a fence with the drive engaged, release the drive handles, and manually pull the mower back without issues.  So that tells me that whatever the repair shop did when replacing the belt, the mower is now adjusted/setup/installed differently than it was from the factory.  So this tells me that one of two (or both) things has occured.  One is that it was asssembled wrong at the factory or two, they have identified a fix for the drive belt issues and are including that fix during any drive belt repairs without acknowledging that there is a problem so they aren't stuck with the bill.  

    I have also discovered the reason why the mower is leaving clumps of grass.  Well, at least with mine that is.  What is happening is that I mainly use my mower in mulching mode with the back and side doors shut (no bag, no chute).  If the grass is even a little too tall, the clippings get clumped up in the door openings instead of being recut by the blade.  Even though the bag door has a moulded part that is supposed to "fill the hole" when closed, it doesn't and the grass lodges up there until the blade starts hitting it, which causes a sound that I have now identified as the blade end hitting the grass accumulations in the door.  When I hear that noise, If while keeping the mower running, I stand to the side of the mower, reach down and open the rear door, there is a large clump of grass clippings that would fill a gallon ziplock storage bag in the hole.  I have to stop the mower, remove the grass, and then continue to mow.  If I don't, clumps start dislodging from the clogged chute and end up lying all over the yard.  It also happens when using the bag, and the bag starts to fill.

    As for the washer valve, I find it easier to just use the hose to rinse the underside vs using the valve.  If you don't have all of the clippings cleaned out from under the deck before you use the valve, it just makes a wet, sticky, grassy mess under there. 

    So here are my "tips" to get this mower to operate at a basic level and minimize grass clippings/clumps left behind.

    1.  Don't let your grass get too long or your going to have a mess.  Mulching only works well if you mow at least twice a week.  Bagging is a little better with longer grass but bag fills quickly so you are constantly emptying it.  If your grass is quite high, just use the chute and leave the clippings, at least they won't be in clumps and will be in a nice row to rake up easily.

    2.  Don't let the mower move any faster than the slowest possible drive speed.  If you dot it will leave grass leaves uncut no matter what blade you use.  Also, if you set the mower on the higher setting (above 6), the deck is not deep enough to create a "lift" and cut the grass evenly.  You will probably have to settle for shorter grass length to get a good even cut.

    3.  Forget about using the washer valve since you have to get under the mower to clean out the clippings first anyways.  Just use the hose after removing the accumulated grass.

    4.  Look at selling it to someone else and buy anything else.  Your yard, grass, and peace of mind will thank you over and over.

    So at the end of the day, I have a high maintenance, overpriced, orange mower that couldn't compete with even the cheapest mower on the market.  And this is even AFTER it was repaired.  The really sad part is that someone actually tried to steal it from my shed the same day I picked it up from the repair shop.  The security floods came on and scared them away just as they were ready to lift it over the backyard fence.  If it wasn't for not wanting to shell out hundreds more for another mower at this time, I almost wish they had gotten away with it.  It would serve them right for going to all that trouble to steal something not worth the effort.  Knowing my luck, they would probably bring it back!  ;-)

  • J Moore

    I regretfully purchased this mower also from Lowes late last year (2012).  The drive belt failed after only 3 mowings/6 hrs of use.  If there was supposed to be some kind of "dealer setup" it was never offered or mentioned.

    Husqvarna refused to cover the replacement of the belt and is adamently standing behind the warranty restrictions on "wear parts".  They refuse to accept the fact that belts do NOT wear out that quickly, so the belt was defective to start, the belt was installed incorrectly at the factory, or I now have a mower that is going to shread more belts than grass.

    Also, the blade is already dull and I cannot seem to find anyone that is willing to sharpen it because of it's design with the 3 "teeth" at the end.  It leaves clumped grass piles all over the yard.  I was told by support that they cannot be sharpened and I needed to buy a new one.  What?  They also strongly advised me that if I purchased an aftermarket one, my warranty would be voided.

    What a racket they have.  It is a 400.00+ piece of junk and they won't stand behind it.  But they have no problem in recommending you spend yet MORE money every few months to keep it running properly.

    Never again.  Back to Honda or Toro for me.