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- 1-3 of 3
- posted April 17, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Riding Lawn Mowers
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Found some wires that are part of harness near front of mower. Zip ties must have been old, because two of them had broken, letting 4 wires drop down to the mower deck pulley. That burned them almost completely in half. Took 4 butt splices, and CRIMPED them, connecting all 4 back up. Put new zip ties back up where wires belonged. Mower is back to 100%. NO hatchet job...just a GOOD backyard mechanic that figures things out by process of elimination. BTW, i now know what and where the voltage regulator, stator, and PTO are, as well as a DVMM, and F56 terminals. Much appreciated...NOT.
NO CLASS, with the attitude you used to flat out tell me, in a derogatory manner no less. When that guy that had already spent over $200 bucks, then it turned out he only needed a $.50 clip to repair His mower, and charging the guy $70-80 bucks. Talk about a "hatchet job"! Very glad it wasn't me, 'cause that's just plain wrong! If that's your policy, then it's a wonder you have a business.
Yep, we can step out, and consider this thread closed. Trouble is, the moderators deleted my first reply, and will likely delete this one as well. Then, block my membership from being able to comment anymore, EVEN THOUGH I know exactly how to be polite, IF someone is polite with me. Easy peezy. No prob. So, you'll never really know what kind of "repairman" you really are.
Regards,
erik_theRed565
- posted March 29, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Riding Lawn Mowers
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Not trying to sound crass, Eugene (hope U know what that means), but it would have taken you a lot less space and time to simply say:
VAT is..., PTO switch (though I'm assuming that is what I referred to as the "blade engagement"), voltage regulator and alternator stator are..., and are located..., F56 terminals are connected to...located..., than to tell me stories about your experiences with "complete novice parts replacers", and folks (according to you) that can't find their way out of a wet paper sack with both ends open.
I really didn't post a new thread for someone to "teach me" the basics of DC wiring. My sole purpose was to have someone that knows / knew why the fuse kept blowing & where to check first...second..., etc. You assumed that by my saying I am no "expert", that I am a "complete novice parts replacer". Not exactly hitting the nail on the head. I DO know a thing or three of the "basics". I can start the mower by going across the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver. The best part? The mower repairman fees in my area are $20-$30 per hour cheaper than yours.
Thanks for the 2-part, 8 paragraph lecture that just told me how great of a small engine repairman you are, & how stupid YOU THINK I am. IF you talk to your customers like you have to me here, I'm surprised that you have a shop, and customers to boot.
- posted March 26, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Riding Lawn Mowers
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Thanks so much for the quick reply, Eugene. I'm afraid I don't know a whole lot about these things, so I hope you will be prepared to bump me along...IF you have the time and patience.
I don't know where the voltage regulator or the alternator stator is, nor do I know how to test either to see if they are bad or ruined. I do have a functioning, but relatively cheap meter, and a small circuit tester. I also don't know where the PTO switch is, how to diagnose it...what VTA or DVMM are. Just for the record, I DO KNOW to not connect the battery w/ reverse polarity. It is definitely connected correctly. Also for the record, I would LOVE to be able to fix this zero-turn mower WITHOUT having to yank the entire wiring harness off of it.
I have 2 wires ( 1 very small...perhaps 14 gauge ) and 1 very large red wire connected to side of the solenoid, that go to the battery. On the other side of the solenoid, I have the large red wire that goes to the starter...connected by itself...BUT there is a black wire, ( small, like the 14 gauge ), with a round "hook-eye" @ the end. I assumed it was a ground, so I connected it to the frame on one side of the solenoid mounting Allen head screws. Blew the 20 amp fuse. Disconnected the black wire from the ground connection, tried it again, and blew the 20 amp again.
Engine pigtail?? Ignition switch (housing)?? Don't get upset, but you're dealing with a NOVICE here. PLEASE try to explain your cure in layman's terms. I would of course, be thankful and in your debt.
Sincerely,
Tom