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- 1-11 of 11
- posted July 12, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Oh my gosh! You are absolutely right! My engine is single. Looking back I remember seeing "Twin" in engine listings in picking out engine parts but now realize I confused myself with CV940s and not CV490s. Sorry for my confusion.
I'll have to search for explicit steps in testingcoil with engine.
Thanks for your patience and help.
- posted July 12, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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I have a Kohler Pro Performance CV490s 27515 17 hp twin.
I'll have to check out more on testing the coils,
As far as solenoid, I do hear a click when I turn ignition ket to on. I'm thinking that means it is ok?
I never had any overheating issues/running problems at all untill my muffler pipe broke - which led me down this long road discovering lost engine mounting bolts and tie down. I replaced muffler and all these other issues were discovered.
- posted July 11, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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1) Thanks, that makes more sense. I am still trying to determine why I was able to start and drive mower (PTO off - brake on). Then engage PTO which releases brake and engage blades. Cut grass. Mower stops so I disengage PTO switch which applies brake. However mower stopped while PTO switch still engaged, then I had to turn PTO switch off to restart mower. Mower would not start and I let it cool off. Later it started and I only drove straight to garage. Then discovered missing tie down.
Wouldn't what I did cause the clutch to spin with no tie down? So I have no idea when I lost tie down. Now if I did all that, drove into garage and tie down then fell off - I could understand that.
2) Coil is possible. When I try and restart, it kind of wants to start but like it is firing slowly on one cylinder and not enough firing to get up any speed and dies. Should I check both coils and if one is bad replace both coils? I've read of possible fuel solenoid - you don't think this is it? My engine is 2 cyclinder 17 hp. I dont think single gravity feed is the case.
Thanks again
- posted July 10, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Since the last time the mower ran I was actually cutting grass. Then it stopped and would not start again. This was my original problem I was investigating - overheating? Fuel solenoid?
It would mow for 15 minutes and stop and not restart unless left sitting and cooled down.Acted as if not getting fuel. So the last time running I was mowing and cutting grass. You imply that if the tie down fell off, the clutch would immediately spin around and rip the wires out? If that is so, sounds like bracket came off when I shut off engine? Or once mower blade engaged and the tie down fell off while mowing I would not know it until I shut off and restarted and then engaged blades?
I am confused as to when I lost the tie down. Is the anti-rotation tie down really only used on engaging the blades? So I could have been mowing and lost tie down somewhere, sometime before mower shut down? I have no idea how the clutch works as I never had any issue with it before and I never had to think about it.
- posted July 10, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Hey Eugene, what do you think about my scenareo above about mowing, mower shutting off and putting in garagee and then discovering missing bolts/tie down? Do you think the clutch was working with out tie downs at that point? Could be a clue to where I lost them.
- posted July 9, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Thaks. Good to know.
Should the 1-3/8" open end wrench be an offset? I dont know if they make one or not. I have no wrenched that big except for Crescent or pipe wrench.
- posted July 9, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Yes I have the double flats. When you say impact, do you mean the air powered impact? I cant imagine the impact tool you hit with a hammer - no room.
Not sure if I want to handle this. The mower repair place near me used to be Husqvarna dealer when I bought mower but they dropped them citing quality and getting parts problems - so they say. My past experience with them (mower repair place) is more skewed to convincing me to buy a new ZTR! They sell Toto or Cub. I proudly claimed that my mower was built like a tank and still runs fine. The dont see it like that. So kind of wondering how good of a job they would do cleaning clutch and would refuse to do so and want me to just buy new clutch. I will if I need to but wanted to try cleaning first.
So impact - air driven will do the job? Not sure if loosening without an impact would be very tough to do or not I have not dealt with this much torque.
- posted July 9, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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My very first issue after mowing I noticed a bolt was missing that held my muffler as it was really rocking loose. I discovered that that caused the muffler pipe to break at the engine flange weld area. I ordered a new muffler.
Before I knew I had any other issues with the mower, I had just replaced the muffler. So the mower started fine and ran for about 15 minutes and then acted as if it ran out of fuel and would not restart. ( I was actually cutting grass) If I let the mower sit and cool down it would start again and I just put it into garge. I was then trying to figure out if I had a overheating issue - solinoid or coil? The next day the same thing happened - while mowing. Let it sit and it restarted and took to garage to look at it closer. So it started and actually ran, cutting grass, engaging clutch for the blades. Looking back at that time, the wiring seems completely normal - not ripped out or unplugged. Later when I discovered the missing tie down is when I dared not operate the mower until I replaced the tie down fearing I would ruin the clutch wiring.
So I then changed the oil and filter. Wanted to just run the mower in garage to see if it would die without cutting grass. After 15 minutes of higher speed running I lowered engine speed and that is when I noticed I lost my oil because the oil drain tube cracked where it threads into the engine. That is also when I discovered that the oil dripped onto/into the clutch. I also noticed there was no clutch tie down and I was missing 3 mounting bolts. I had been mowing up until then. So according to you the last time I mowed and the mower died, I must have lost the bolts and tie down in that area or somewhere near? If can determine the last area I mowed I could look for the tie down. I tried with a cheap metal detector but found nothing. Tried detecting a larger part of lawn but found no signs of bolts or tie down so I really dont know when I lost them.
- posted July 8, 2018 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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I bought a steel bar about that size. Seems real strong. Started like you said at one end and bent it, then the other end. Then drilled bolt hole. It fits real good. I do not know how much stress this part takes but feel this is very good. Question: If I had started mower and engaged the blade, would that have twisted and ruined the clutch without the tie down? I ask because I was totally unaware I lost this part and 2 other engine mounting bolts. Fixing that led me to notice the missing tie down. Could not find the tie down in yard so do not know if it just happened or I have been mowing for some time without it Hence the question. I have another serious issue with clutch but will post it in a seperate post so this one does not ramble on.
- posted April 21, 2016 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Thanks I will give it a try this weekend.
Your link shows a stud more exactly like the OEM. The one I got with smaller lip should still work. If you dont hear back, it works fine.
thanks again for your responses.
- posted April 20, 2016 in Husqvarna: Ask & Answer > Zero Turn Mowers
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Thanks for your reply.
I did go to an auto parts store and they found a 1/2-20 stud. The only difference I could see are that the shoulder lip is not as wide as Husqvarna OEM. But if they will work for an auto wheel, surely they will work for a mower.
I was told to slip stud into hub, add several flat washers and use an old lug nut and tighten nut on the stud to pull into the hub. Is this a recommended way to insert into hub?