PROBLEM SOLVED. The fuel lines looked relatively new, but they were deteriorating on the inside after the fuel filter, so particles were getting to the carb and clogging it up. Replaced all fuel lines, cleaned the carb, and now it runs perfect every time. Through my efforts I discovered that 90% of the time a surging problem is due to a fueling problem. I hope that helps someone else more than the other lack of contributions.
Mowed my land and it still starts surging after mowing for around an hour.
I finally found some info and changed the drive box oil. Hopefully this will help someone out. Remove from the mower, clean off plug area, remove plug with Allen wrench (1/4" I believe), dump out oil to drain, slowly refill with 20w50 motor oil to minimize air bubbles. The listed capacity is approximately 54 ounces, but 48 ounces went into mine to reach the proper level of 1 1/2"-3/4" below the top. Put oil plug back in, and reinstall on mower. Before use, pull out the drive enable pin so that the pump is in neutral. Start mower and move the drive bar forward for 5 seconds, back for 5 seconds, for 3 total times forward and back to purge air out. Push bar back in, and now it should be ready to go. Changing the oil made a big improvement in the power of the drive box. The box can be taken apart and internal components replaced, if someone was brave enough to do so.
No obstructions were anywhere near the engine that would cut down air flow. Changed the spark plugs. Cleaned the carb really well. Checked all fuel lines. Everything looks good. There is a small oil leak that had coated half of the engine in oil which grass and dust had stuck to. Fixed the leak and cleaned the engine off. The engine looks nearly new inside and out. Cut my yard and it still does great like it always has. Have not tried my land yet. What else could it be? How can I check the coils?
It has the Kawasaki FR691V-ES00 V-twin. No mouse beds.
Remove, dump, fill?
So, synthetic is preferred then. Is there a ballpark capacity listed? Thank you
So, remove the unit, dump out the oil through the vent tube, and refill to 3/4-1 1/2" below the top? Conventional (non-synthetic) 20w-50 motor oil? What is the capacity suppose to be? Thank you
Used SAE30, Kawaski filter, and generic fuel filter. Goes straight and turns left pretty quick, but turning right is much slower, like the left drive doesn't pull as hard. Is this normal, or is there something I can do to remedy it? Thanks
You likely bent the deck and a blade is hitting it, bent a blade and it is hitting the deck, and/or damaged a spindle. Have you visually inspected it? I have bent many decks and simply hammered them back out and went on.
It is a Kawasaki FR691V-ES00. I found a manual and it said the oil capacity is 2.2 quarts with filter change, and to use SAE30 oil for temperatures in my area during season, 68-98 degrees. A lot of people recommend synthetic 10w30. I do not see the advantages of a multi-viscosity oil since the operating temperatures will be too high to take advantage of it other than a 'synthetic' being available, which are not even true synthetics. Which is better for longer engine life? I will just use a factory oil filter. Thanks