Comments

  • 1-12 of 12
  • Edward Gooding

    Eugene, would you please email me at egooding123@gmail.com?

  • Edward Gooding

    Looks like it was the seat switch.  Took it out and cleaned it, but it didn't look anywhere as nasty as the handbrake switch.  I first reinstalled the handbrake switch and tested it but the engine still stalled.  After I cleaned and put the seat switch back and tested it, she worked fine.  Put the fender and seat back on and took her for a ride - ran great.  Thanks again for the help, Eugene.  I really appreciate it.

    Regards...........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Hi Eugene, and thank you once again.  I'll check that next.  Took off the handbrake switch - the connector terminals were filthy and I cleaned them.  I'm checking continuity on that now and I'm not getting any resistance on any combo of terminals that I touch, with or without the button pressed on the switch.  One of the terminals is slightly loose in the switch housing and I did get a blip of resistance when I moved it but mostly I'm getting zero resistance on all combos of terminals touched with my meter.  I'm inclined to think it might be this switch, but would like your thoughts on it, please.  I'll check the butt-in-seat switch connection next while waiting for your thoughts on what I've found so far.

    As always, much appreciated..........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Well, better lucky than good any day, right?  I had the anti-spin lock in the hole, but it was a combo of luck and common sense.  The clutch body really only fits up one way without hitting on the hydro gears and so I figured that part out, but was unaware of the anti-spin lock until you told me about it.  Checked and it was engaged from my 2nd installation attempt after I found it spinning, but next time I'll know to line it up the first time.  Thanks again, Eugene.  

  • Edward Gooding

    Aha!  Gotcha!  I will double check that in the morning.  It's O-Beer-30 right now and I'm hanging it up for today.

    Thanks once again, Eugene - much appreciated.........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    The PTO anti-spin brace - is the the large, brass bushing type part that fits above the clutch and under the tranny drive belt pulley?  If so, then I think I'm good, but I did assemble it wrong the first time.  The brass bushing thingy kept dropping down on me when I was trying to mate the key in the pulley with the shaft, so I put some grease on it to hold it to the upper pulley while I was finding the keyway.  But when I got it assembled, I noticed the clutch spinning and hitting the ears on the hydro gears when I moved it by hand.  I knew that had to be wrong, so I dropped the lower pulley and clutch, brought the brass bushing thingy down and reassembled.  Now the clutch does not move when I move the lower pulley.  Thanks for schooling me on what that was all about.  I don't know where you are, but I'd sure like to buy you a beer sometime, bud.  This has been a minor PITA, but it will go twice as fast next time and now I also know how to replace the deck belt when that day comes.  You've been a big help and I really appreciate it.

    Thank you........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Eugene, never mind on my follow-up question about the spring.  I finally realized that I was barking up the wrong tree and just had to push inward on the idler pulley attached to the pivot bushing and not mess with the spring.  Major duhhhhhhhhhhhh moment.

    Thanks.........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Another photo to show you what I'm working with.

  • Edward Gooding

    Have a follow-up question, Eugene and need the benefit of your experience again (thanks in advance).  Started on this after lunch - getting the tranny drive belt loose was no biggie.  But, I've also got to drop the deck drive pulley and clutch from beneath the engine to get the upper belt off.  Need to remove the big honkin' spring to release tension on the deck drive belt and it's a mf'er.  I've got a spring hook and I'm a big dude, but I cannot stretch that sucker enough get it off the post.  I was hoping it had a lever end where I could put a socket and breaker bar to release the spring tension to remove the deck belt, but no cigar. The spring is attached to two fixed posts.  Do you have any tips/tricks for removing the big spring on the deck?  I've got a good set of tools, but I'm at a loss on how to safely get this big sucker off without just going berserker on it and maybe breaking something.  Thought it better to ask first.

    Thanks................Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Thanks again.  My dealer said that Husqvarna doesn't even give/sell service manuals to their dealers.....crazy!?  Oh well, I do have the parts book and I can usually figure out what to do if I have that.  You excellent advice above has confirmed what I thought.  The dealer recommended that I also replace the spring ($10) and I went with it.

    I really appreciate the help you've given, Eugene!  I don't know what they pay you, bro, but I think a raise is in order.........LOL

    Thanks again...........Ed

  • Edward Gooding

    Thanks again for your help, Eugene.  I get it on "bottoming out" - senior moment there.

    Thank you for the tip on the Drainzit - will definitely pick one up ASAP.  Also, can use a small pie plate with rag under the filter to get any oil that drips from removing the filter.

    I'll swing by my dealer today and buy a new transmission drive belt.  I keep detailed maintenance records on my equipment and will note the hours on the meter when I change it out and then monitor from there.

    Last ? - are service/shop manuals available for working on this equipment?  I've changed out tran. drive belts on lawn tractors and know that I can figure this out, but also know that a proper manual will save me some time and hassle. 

    Thanks again for all your advice - much appreciated...........Ed

     

  • Edward Gooding

    Thank you, Eugene.  Good info on not having to adjust the belt tension.  I have 81 hours on this belt - can you advise on typical lifespan and/or replacement schedules?  The belt is riding on the bottom of the idler pulley - you can tell by the shiny wear on the pulley.  

    I have contributed to the problem I believe.  My initial issue was a lack of response on the right side only.  I was able to limp it into my shop and I decided to do other maintenance while there, which included an oil change.  It's not possible to change the oil on the Kawasaki engine without making a mess (at least I haven't figured out how) so I know some oil dripped on the transmission drive belt and I'm sure it is slipping to the point where neither Hydro Gear will operate properly.  I can fix that.  I guess my main question at this point is:  is 80 hours +/- the typical change-out time for a tranny drive belt?  At any rate, I guess I'll be buying a new one to see if this solves it.

    Related question:  Are shop or service manuals available for Husqvarna ZTR's?

    Thank you very much for the guidance on this.........Ed