The 7021 was originally released in 2004, model 7021CH1A. It had a 7HP Briggs and Stratton Engine, hence the 7021. 70 designates 7.0 HP and 21 designates 21" cutting width.
It has ALWAYS been a high wheel push mower.
The unit has gone through several model changes over the last 9 years. The 7021P was finally introduced in the 1st quarter of 2009 with the Honda GCV160 which is also a 7HP engine.
Side note, 90% of Husky's lawn product model numbers actually tell you more than you realize. For example, I personally own the LTH18538 Tractor. LT shows it's a Lawn Tractor. H shows it's Hydrostatic drive. 185 shows it has an 18.5 HP engine and finally, the 38 shows it has a 38" deck. Meanwhile, the Zero Turn Mowers are opposite, RZ indicates a Riding Zero turn, then the FIRST 2 numbers are the deck size and the last series is engine size.
Hate to do this, but I must answer your question with some questions.
The wheel motors are independant of each other. Is the lock on the right wheel motor fully locked?
Is the hydro oil at the proper level in the right wheel motor?
Are there any obstructions blocking the control from moving properly?
The belt tight?
The call center hours are Monday-Friday from 8AM to 8PM EST and the number is 1-800-487-5951
There's no phone support on the weekends.
You can also try contacting a local AUTHORIZED service center.
Check the pulleys and make sure the top of the deck is not loaded with debris. Often times, either a damaged pulley or excessive debris can cause the belt to jump. Also, you can check for broken mandrel housings.
Another thing you can check is the deck linkages to make sure they're not damaged or loose.
Regrettably, that item is not covered under any type of warranty as it's considered a consumable item. However, looking at that chain photo you provided, I can assure you 100% that the chain is safe for use and that tooth can be sharpened as much as the rest. That is actually the final link on the chain, meaning, that is where the chain was connected and "rolled"
Check the spring on the drive belt tensioner to make sure it is present and not broken. Also, make sure the idler arm is moving fully. Easiest way to check is to drop the belt, release the braks and try to move it by hand.
If everything is fine, check the linkage adjustment to make sure you're getting full throw of the idler.
ANY machine with an engine MUST work with the throttle in the full open position.
ALL cold starts require the use of full throttle AND full choke. Once running, shut off the choke and back the throttle off to less than half to allow for engine warm up and oil flow.
You should NEVER run with the choke for more than 1 minute. If you must do this, then you need to get the unit to a repair shop for diagnosis.
Whenever you ENGAGE or DISENGAGE the deck, the throttle MUST be at half.
First, check ALL pulleys and belt guides. Make sure the pulleys move free and the bearings are not noisey. Make sure that all belt guides provide a MINIMUM 1/16 to 1/8 inch clearence. Anymore than that, or bad pulleys can cause the belt to jump.
NEXT, if this is the same belt that you have been using that keeps jumping, replace it. The belt can be damaged and you would never know it.
FINALLY, make sure to keep the grass and debris build up on the deck and frame to a minimum or none at all. That can get between pulleys and belts causing them to jump, but regardless, a jumping belt REQUIRES replacement.
As simply as I can possibly state this, return the power vac attachment. It is NOT meant to be used on a Husky product. Your best bet would be to get the proper bagger kit for your unit and install "hi-lift" blades for optimal bagging.
About 99.9% of mulch kits are cross compatable with each deck of it's group, meaning, 48' mulch kit can be used on almost all 48' decks. The exception to this rule would be that they are NOT cross compatable between fabricated decks and stamped decks. As for reviews, I can only comment on what I have heard from customers, and believe me, it's very mixed. Some hate it, some love it and some just coundn't care less. My only advice is to find a dealer who allows test driving.
That would be the TUFFTORQ K46 BT. One of the more top of the line models available. It is used by a number of tractor manufacturers.
Sometimes chains come like that. Nothing to worry about. But if it makes you feel safe, go ahead and buy a new chain.
Check with Sears. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/725536855/0071/358?pathTaken=directMatch&filterPart=&pop=flush&prst=0&shdPart=725536855
First, set your saw on the bench and relax.
Second, PULL the brake handle all the way back. Did you hear a click? No? Then the brake is engaged.
Here's the fix. Remove the clutch cover, bar and chain.
PULL the brake handle to reset the brake. Then reinstalled the bar, chain and cover. Adjust the chain and tighten the nut.
I hope this helps.
Check with your local dealer. Depending on the year of the saw, they may be able to make something that will work from a newer saw. Note, over tightening the chain will cause this issue. Also, a slightly loose chain cuts far better than a tight chain.