Hi Doug, 1 thing to check is the drive key that connects the wheel rim to the axle may have dropped/slipped out, jack up the machine, remove the wheel again & turn the axle, you will see a long groove in the end of the axle shaft, also look at the wheel rim where it fits on to the axle, it also has a long groove cut in to it, some where on the ground there should be a piece of key steel, that fits in the grooves when they are lined up, search around in the area that you took the wheel off or it may have fallen out from the wheel rim when the tyre was changed, when you find it, put the wheel back on, line up the 2 grooves & slide in the key steel, fit washer & clip - test run. If that doesn't work check the drive belt tension. Hope this helps.
Regards
Bryan
Hi Margie, the Kohler filter part number is 12 050 01-S, oil is 10W30
Regards
Bryan
Hi Matt, the carb overhaul kit part no: 842261 thats a genuine Briggs & Stratton part, when you take off the carb again get a aerosol spray can of carb cleaner with the long nozzle to spray in the small pilot jets & up the main jet, before that try a couple of new sparkplugs (champion RC12YC) also try running the engine & remove the air filter for a few seconds to see if air flow is the problem. Hope this helps.
Regards
Bryan
Hi Earl, it sounds like you have whats called a rim sprocket, which may be worn ( it is a ware item), take the complete saw down to your local autherised dealer & they will be able to change the sprocket, inspect the bar & chain & advise you what the problem is once they have seen it.
regards
Bryan
Hi Joseph, can you supply a few more details like what brand your machine is, model, how old it is, manual blade engage or electric, also how easy it is to put back on after it's come off? - the belt guides on the cutterdeck may be bent allowing the belt to flex to a point where it jumps off.
Regards
Bryan
Hi Earl, check the chain drive sprocket on the saw, if it is worn down, take your saw to your local dealer to get the correct replacement part, also check the bar that the chain runs on it may also have some ware that may be able to be skimmed on a machine, hope this helps.
Regards
Bryan
Hi Rick, a tube in the left front would be the best solution, but i have used a rubberised fluid that coates the inside of a small tyre, that when filled with air the fluid cures or becomes not fluid & seals any air leaks, you may be able to get this done at your local tyre shop or dealer where you got your machine from, my ride on mower is 10 - 15 years old & the tyres have cracks on the side walls from age & being left out in the weather, i put some of that sealant in to 3 of the tyres because they would go flat often & that was over a year ago - no flats yet.
Regards
Bryan
Hi, How old is your machine? on machines that are a few years old the casters on the front that steer can have some ware/play so when you go to turn, the caster pivot shafts rock in the bushings instead of turning smoothly when trying to turn sharply, 1 thing you can check is to jack up the front of the machine so each caster is off the ground & see if each 1 swivels smoothly or rocks around in the bushings, also check tyre pressures.
hope this helps
Regards
Bryan
Hi Jay, the Briggs engine you have on your Husqvarna has the model no: 111P02 0116-F1 which you need to keep for future reference, give this number to your local Briggs agent when ordering parts & they use this number to look up the parts that are required, the part numbers your after are 795066 air filter, 796254 pre filter (foam wrap), 692051 spark plug or RC12YC Champion spark plug, 10W30 oil.
Hope this helps
regards
Bryan
Hi Jay, is the machine a walk behind mower? does it have a Briggs & Stratton engine? try to get some engine numbers off the valve cover or the i.d. sticker on the blower housing to provide extra information to get the correct part numbers.
Hi Charles, the 532 13 09 69 belt is the correct belt for that machine, there should be 3 idler pulleys that the belt moves around plus the engine drive pulley & trans pulley, 2 idler pulleys are v shaped & 1 is flat for the backside of the belt to run on, make sure the belt is correctly in the v of the engine pulley & on the correct side of the belt guides, check all other pulleys to make sure the belt sits correctly, the spring tension is the next thing to check on the swivel plate which should have the flat idler pulley - with the brake/clutch pedal up there should be good tension on the belt, make sure there is no obstruction stopping the pedal comming all the way up, if the belt is good & routed correctly around the correct pulleys & the tension is good, then there should be no reason for a shorter belt. hope this helps
regards
Bryan