I bought a new 455 Rancher chainsaw in Sep 2011. I was tired of problems with my Poulan Pro not starting. The saw was used for a max of 5 total hours. Took the saw out this past summer 2012 to use it again and it wouldn't start. Dealer cleaned out carburetor, black debris in carb screen was cleaned out. This fixed issue and it ran. Purchased non-ethanol fuel and dumped other ethanol mix fuel deciding to only use non-ethanol mix for saw. Ran saw with non-ethanol mix for about one hour total, dumped fuel out of tank and stored.
Got saw back out late Dec 2012, used it for 10 minutes and then let it sit overnight, next day it won't start. Removed spark plug, totally wet, dried plug, pulled starter several times to dry out cylinder a little. Installed plug, saw started. Let set overnight, gas in compartment below carb, poured gas out and gas also came out of the carb throat.
This saw is flooding when sitting still, totally unacceptable !
Dried out again, started then stopped. Waited 2 minutes then stood saw up with carb down and saw tip in air, squeezed throttle to see gas running out of throat.
Needless to say, I'm not a happy consumer right now. I sprang for a higher cost and hopefully higher quality saw and honestly, I got years of trouble free operation from my much cheaper Poulan chain saw then the 455 rancher I have.
I know what the dealer is going to say, warranty doesn't cover this.
Any suggestions on what is causing this problem and how to fix it? I am a mechanic so I can change the carb gaskets but I'm not convinced that is going to help. I estimate there was at least 4-6 tablespoons of fuel in the carb compartment area and in the carb throat. This almost seems like some siphon effect going on.
Any feedback appreciated.
I have a fairly new Husqvarna 395xp; about 1 year old and not a lot of use. I was tightening the bar nuts onto the stud bolts yesterday and the rear stud bolt began to turn. I cannot remove the bar nut on the rear stud bolt now as the bolt just turns with the nut. I am sure I can drill a shallow hole and use a thread tap in the hole to apply counter torque to remove the nut. My question is: how difficult is it to replace the stud bolt. From what I can see it entails splitting the crank shaft housing to get at the end of the bolt. Is this correct? Is it something I can do or does it require a trip to a repair shop?