I have a riding lawn mower with the SmartSwitch keyless ignition. It worked fine for one year, now it fails to work. I ordered a replacement switch, but it has the same behavior, which points to a wiring issue somewhere in the mower. I also tried resetting the SmartSwitch with the 1231231231 code, but that didn't help.
Here's what happens:
Does the 6 blinks mean something?
Any idea how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks!
I have a LTH 18538. When I turn the key, the starter only spins about half a turn, basically until the compression stroke on the piston. If I take out the spark plug, it spins and spins with no problem. I've replaced the battery, solenoid, and starter, but the problem remains exactly as it was before. What am I missing?
The rear wheels are rubbing on the frame of the mower, the tires are showing scrapes on the sides where the rubbing is occurring. All bolts on mount points are tight. The bolts on pipe between the pumps are tight. The wheels when you look at them from the rear look like they are bowed out at the bottom forcing the tops of the tires into the frame... Nothing looks bent on the hydraulic motor mount.
Any thoughts?
I've had this LGT2554 for almost (if not) 2 years. Fantastic mower. Reverse speed leaves a little to be desired, but that's not my main problem.
Last summer, the drive belt jumped off twice. Both times, I sent it to the dealer for service. There was, perhaps, 4 hours between these services. The first time the belt was replaced.
This spring, the drive belt has jumped off no less than 6 times. 4 times I have been able to put it back on myself. 1 time I had my fleet (Pepsi Warehouse) mechanic inspect it to see why it kept jumping off. He couldnt replicate the problem.
I just dropped it off at the dealer for the 3rd time in 1 year due to the drive belt jumping off.
I seem to have narrowed down WHEN it is jumping off...but not WHY. It seems to be jumping off when I come to a stop using the brake. The dealer told me he recalled having this problem with another LGT2554.
Any advice or solutions I can take to the dealer?
Here's the story: Last summer I had a small grass fire on the mowing deck of my GTH2548. No serious damage, but it melted the wires going from the electric clutch to the connector at the wiring harness. One wire melted all the way to the clutch body. When the PTO is disengaged, the tractor runs great, but of course there is no mower.
Problem 1: So, I pulled the clutch, drilled a small hole into the housing where the one wire had burned off, and used a brad, solder and some liquid epoxy to reattach the bad wire. I locked the clutch into a vice and hooked up the wires to a power supply, and it appears to engage. Unfortunately, before I realize that the connection to the housing was not made to be accessed/serviced, I had loosened the bolts on the top plate (there are springs between the plate and the housing). I didn't pay attention to how many turns it took, so I don't know if I torqued the bolts back down properly (i.e., could I have overtightened the plate?).
Problem 2: The fire melted half of the connector to the wiring harness. It appears that there is some kind of diode or something that is part of the circuit there, but I can't figure out how to replicate it, and I'd rather not buy a whole harness.
Problem 3: I hooked up the clutch to the shaft, then hooked the wires back up to the harness by splicing in just below the connector (there was just a smidge of wire left), but now the second I engage the PTO switch, the onboard voltmeter goes crazy and the clutch does not engage.
My questions are, how can I tell at this point if I need a new clutch, a new PTO switch, or a new connector (ideally without having to buy a new harness if so). I don't mind paying to replace bad parts, but I don't want to make unnecessary purchases or take out some other part because I replaced the wring thing.
I really like this mower and would like to get a lot more service out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.